Making the LR3 trail ready

[Houm_WA]

I would love to see that TSB for re-routing the wiring harness. I thought that was strictly a DIY job...

 

[tlt]

I do not have a copy of it. The dealer originally mentioned it. There is a write here on it; http://lr3tips.wordpress.com/2010/10/01/bigger-tires-move-this-wire/

 

[Houm_WA]

I thought I heard of a TSB or at least a new part number for the sensors themselves...maybe the wire re-route is part of that procedure.

 

[MilehighLR3]

What size tires then. I like the Nitto and had them on my first lr3. I would have done the lift part first, which would then allow larger tires, presuming that's part of your reasoning for the 2" spacers.

That spacer idea is intriguing added to the now available steel spring conversion but also to the air springs. I'd love to see someone's lr3 with that whole set up installed and also drive it to see how it handles at 70 mph down an interstate mountain road like I90 in Idaho or I70 in western Colorado with a full load.

If all this cool stuff to make the lr3 more trail capable requires driving it like it's a D90, then what's the point.

When I bought my LR3, it needed tires. I didn't want to put the factory size back on it and decided to buy the 285/60 Nittos because I wasn't sure I wanted to rely on the rod-mod kits.

Not that I don't think the rod-mod kits are good, tons of people are using them. I just wanted to try something different.

I saw the "Roveribis" you tube posting (in Puerto Rico, I think), he's running the Toddco lift and Nitto 33" Mud tires on 18" Redbourne wheels. Well you can't get the Redbourne's in 18" any longer and I have a line of some custom back spacing Fuel wheels.

So .. . . .my plan is to see just how much more tire I can get under the Landy. I liked the spacer idea because I have some experience with suspension spacers on Jeeps and given that they use the factory suspension parts . . . .the factory ride is preserved.

The jury is out on exactly what I can fit and how everything deals with the mods. Like you, I have no interest in turning my nice supple ride into a bouncing rattle trap (not that D90's are rattle traps, I'm a big fan of the D90, but I think you understand what I mean).

 

[Mack73]

Just so you are aware, there have been reports that the toddco spacers in the front, alter the geometry or allow for an increased droop which allows for the upper control arm to contact and rupture the air spring.

http://www.**************/forum/topic52963-30.html

replace *** with disco 3.co.uk

 

[Houm_WA]

...these toddco spacers go between the air shock and its mount, right? We're not talking about hub spacers, are we?

 

[ryan-in-oregon]

The toddco spacers go between the strut and frame effectively raising the vehicle 2" when bottomed out. Without the addition of shortened rods they do not lift the vehicle on their own. Quite honestly I think they are a bad idea all the way around. 1st reason being for the reasons I stated in the link above. 2nd reason when lifted and loaded with gear the suspension is a bit too soft anyway and can really benefit from the extra air pressure(thus higher spring pressure). It doesn't ruin the ride at all in my opinion.

 

[Houm_WA]

I still don't see how this airshock-rupturing could physically happen. Maybe with the spacers, but with the shortened rods or stock, I can't envision it. I laid down under my LR3 for 10 minutes just looking at that area last night trying to picture the control arms moving up and down and can't see how it can happen. There is even a vertical piece of steel where the frame rail ends and connects to....whatever...maybe some sub-frame assembly, that would interfere with contact between the control arm and the shock. The rods shouldn't matter because they don't change the range of movement of the shock...that is limited by the EAS ECU....that's why we rod-users get faults sometimes. The system won't let us go beyond a certain range. The 10'ish inches of travel for the shocks does not change if the rig has shortened rods...you just start out in a different part of that range.

This one has puzzled me ever since it happened to ya, Ryan. I just don't get it. That one is a mystery, as is the whole wiring harness getting rubbed by the tires being an issue on some LR3s...while mine enjoys approx. 2 inches of clearance between my 275-series tire's sidewall, and the wiring bundle.

?????

Sorry to detour the thread (not a full on jack)....

 

[tlt]

The tire width makes a difference. Toddco has two kits, one is the rods, and the other is the air spring extension 2". I have seen a set fitted, I don't really have an opinion on them either way.

They were fitted in combination with taller tires 275x65x18 to be specific. I am not sure anymore of the merits or detriments of wider versus narrower tires. Specifically the conditions you plan to operate in may partially dictate that choice.

Tire widths in MM and inches. The calculations was mm / 25.4 = inches.

285mm = 11.22"
275mm = 10.82"
255mm = 10.03"

 

[ryan-in-oregon]

Houm, If the opportunity presents itself this weekend I will show you how they can contact!!! You have to have the suspension fully extended to see it. If I can find something to get one wheel off the ground I will show you...

And you are correct altered rods do not effect the geometry but the spacers absolutely do!