update...
stealership has determined that the plugs for the manifold diverter plug and the coolant temp sensor were swapped. $650 (after asking for a discount) to fix the problem. $190 diagnostic fee, $460 repair cost.
Im honestly surprised that those 2 connectors are interchangeable. oh well. expensive lesson learned. and hopefully someone in the future doing this repair finds this helpful.
DaytonaRS7 - Thanks a million for this post. You've saved me countless more hours of frustration in sharing your experience here. I will elaborate further for others that may (will) come along after us (as well as invite any further commiseration).
2013 LR4 HSE LUX - Purchased car at auction in perfect condition except for the engine - apparent oil change without refilling oil - the dreaded no dipstick at quick changes. Decided to swap the engines with a used engine as a project with my daughter and boyfriend. Replaced everything we could:
Timing chains - OEM LR upgraded
Fuel Injectors - OEM Bosch
Water Pump - OEM LR
Radiator
Condenser
Valve Cover/Oil Cooler Gaskets
Motor Mounts - OEM LR
Mass Airflow Sensors - Denso
Thermostat Assembly - OEM LR
Spark Plugs - Platinum Iridium
O2 Sensors - OEM LR
Primary Fuel Pump & Filter - OEM LR
Battery
Took our time and very methodical through the entire process. Double checked timing 3-4 times. Rotate crank through full cycles to realign chains and sprockets, tensioned correctly, etc. Completed all reassembly and engine dressing. Went to start the engine - cranked strong, good compression, had fuel, had spark, but wouldn't fire - didn't perform any further diagnostics on timing of valves, fuel injectors and coils.
Had purchased a laptop with SDD and VCI diagnostic cable. It worked for a couple of days until the license and version (V163) expired and repeatedly required clearing dialogue boxes to continue. No problem, I downloaded V164 but didn't realize I needed the offline patch ("offline" isn't elaborated). Went into TOPIXJLR and purchased a license for one month, VIN locked and upgraded to V165. Program still wouldn't load and authenticate properly. I reached out TOPIX for help and was redirected somewhere else. Finally got it working and was back online after loading the offline patch. Found a variety of codes and began resetting and reprogramming modules. Not know the history of the car and failure (EPIC VIN cleared any accidents on it), I decided to do a full reset. Had comms/fault issues with Immobilizer, Rear Differential Control Module and Vehicle Restraints Module (VRM).
After clearing and reprogramming ALL modules, I decided I had a permanent "ghost" code on the VRM that was possibly tripped due to a hard impact driving or being handled. I had spent probably 20-30 hours by this time only reprograming/resetting modules, double check any loose wires, etc., with the same situation - cranks strong, fuel delivered, spark delivered, but won't run.
I cam across this post and couldn't believe this would be the problem until it was pointed out one connector is for Coolant Temperature and the other is for Intake Diverter. Once I removed the intake, I discovered the following:
Coolant Temp Sensor Plug was Connected to the Diverter Module at the rear of the intake
Diverter Signal Plug was connected to the Coolant Temp Sensor
One of the vacuum tubes on the rear of the intake (drivers the diverter) had disconnected
NOTE: Not only are these two connectors identical, the length of the "pigtail" are roughly the same. Worse yet, they loop and twist when connected, taking a set over time from the heat they are exposed to. They appear to naturally fit in the wrong location which is why it is easy to switch them and not think much of it.
Once everything was reinstalled, the engine fired immediately and runs like a top. I hate that it cost DaytonaRS7 $$ to get the answer. DM me if you're ever in San Antonio and a nice steak is on me!
I love Rovers and have six of them - three LRs and three RRS. Very disappointed the engineers made a goof like this. I understand running out of connector options, but what about reversing one or the other to prevent this? Basic engineering design principle. Also spent a ton of $$ on OEM LR parts to get this back on the road. Needed the SDD to do what is necessary. Why make it so hard and expensive for diagnostics. A lot more loyalty and preference to LR parts would be created if they made it easier and less expensive to diagnose. A reasonable fee to support engineering and software maintenance is understood. A DIYer is going to figure out how to avoid a shop - not out of spite but just because that's what we do. A non DIYer is going to the DLR. Seems like a win-win for JLR.
One final gaff. Was completing the wheel well and washer fluid installation on the driver's side. They did it again! The washer fluid reservoir plug is the same as the TPMS antenna. AARRGGHHHH!!!
Thanks again for the time everyone makes posting their experiences. I hope my elaboration increases this hit rate for this possible issue people have and saves them time and money.
