First post- going to look at a LR4 soon.

[NoleAnimal22]

Hello all,
This is my first post- and with any luck, it won't be my last. I've been kicking around the idea of getting a Land Rover for a while now. I love the new Defenders, but didn't pull the trigger on one when the finances allowed. Fast forward a couple of rough years and I still have the itch, but I've been looking more at LR4s for a while. Well- the need for a second car has gotten pretty serious and I convinced the wife that a LR4 would be the right fit. So here I am.

I am going to look at a 2014 HSE Lux soon (hopefully this evening) with a shade over 110k miles. The price was pretty appealing and it's at a larger dealer with a lot of good reviews... so I expect that, at the very least, nothing is massively wrong with the truck. I have looked at a few PPI checklists- however, I'd like to ask y'all for any last minute, more focused things to look for- as in quick (in a dealer lot) ways to maybe check the air suspension health or places to look for oil leaks. Things of that nature. I am vaguely aware that these engines tend to have timing chain wear issues. Is there a particular sound I should be listening for in the engine? I may live to regret it, but an indy mechanic inspection is likely not going to be doable, but the price is such that the gamble is probably (read: hopefully) worth it.

I am no stranger to European luxury vehicles, but mostly German. I've owned more Porsches than you can shake a stick at. A fair number of Mercedes too. But this is the first British car (was JLR owned by Ford at this time?). Thanks for any feedback or advice you can provide.

Scott

 

[txfromwi]

Welcome to the group - this is a great place to be!

So that's the V6 with the supercharger and the 8 speed transmission.

There are several other strings on this forum with that question, seek them out...

Here are a few...

Remove the appearance cover. At the oil filter at about 2:00, look straight down as far as you can, use a UV flashlight (in the dark) and look for any orange/yellow - that's a front crossover pipe leak and will require IMMEDIATE attention.
Dry will indicate previous issues, wet indicates current leak.
This is a major design issue in our vehicles - tons of info here on this issue.

Lower Front control arms, drive 2-4mph, do a very quick stop, listen for a clunk immediately in front of the drivers seat, that will be a bushing issue - look for stickers on the control arms - those take a while to come off and if there are stickers they have been sorta recently replaced.

Make sure it shifts smoothly of course - these are not glass smooth, but you know what to look for...

At the hitch in back - look at the "clover leaf" if it's broken or bent, there has been abuse.
Also look at the holes in the frame rails at the back - same comment.

Look for water lines, dirt up where is can never get (engine cavity is a good spot), this indicates high water, flooding or off roading.

Foot off the brake, lower and raise the suspension.
Should be smooth. If it's jerky it has not been used enough to keep it well maintained.


Probable immediate maintenance:
Front/Rear crossover pipes, this project also includes new water pump, probably belts, supercharger oil and supercharger coupling, misc other items.
Do it your self level - medium difficulty
Dealer cost to do this is $5-6K.

Brakes of course.
Do it yourself level - easy.

Lower Front Control Arms.
Do it yourself level - easy.

Fuel tank flange recall.
Dealer function - fill it up, park it a while, smell for gasoline at the passenger rear tire.
Dealers have been know to mess up the recall and make the situation worse...

Transmission Pan swap
This is a must do it yourself project, dealerships will not, indy shops might?
Difficulty level - higher end of medium.
If it shifts rough will also need to drop the mechatronic and change the seals - there is a tricky bit to this step.

If you cannot get two keys then get them to throw in a second key and have it programmed and the emergency key cut.
If not, at least get a "blank" fob and program it yourself.
Difficulty - easy.

Keys to roof racks are easy to get.
Keys to the hitch are easy to get, removing the old hitch without a key is simple brute force.
Rebuild kit for the hitch after you beat it to bits to get it out - easy.

Check for the Rover logo on the windshield - if it's missing it's replacement glass.

Check the top of the cowl over the speedometer cluster for sun damage - you won't see it from the normal driving vantage point.

Check the cowl at the outside bottom of the windshield and make sure the "gasket" fits tight to the window.
These cowls warp.
First location to warp is always in front of the passenger.
It's a subtle thing, look closely.
If it's warped it will need to be replaced as leakage at this location puts water on the passenger floorboards.
Do it yourself difficulty - easy.

I have several videos out there on You Tube, user name there is txfromwi, hours and hours of details and great cures for insomnia...

Good Luck!!

 

[NoleAnimal22]

Welcome to the group - this is a great place to be!

So that's the V6 with the supercharger and the 8 speed transmission.

There are several other strings on this forum with that question, seek them out...

Here are a few...

Remove the appearance cover. At the oil filter at about 2:00, look straight down as far as you can, use a UV flashlight (in the dark) and look for any orange/yellow - that's a front crossover pipe leak and will require IMMEDIATE attention.
Dry will indicate previous issues, wet indicates current leak.
This is a major design issue in our vehicles - tons of info here on this issue.

Lower Front control arms, drive 2-4mph, do a very quick stop, listen for a clunk immediately in front of the drivers seat, that will be a bushing issue - look for stickers on the control arms - those take a while to come off and if there are stickers they have been sorta recently replaced.

Make sure it shifts smoothly of course - these are not glass smooth, but you know what to look for...

At the hitch in back - look at the "clover leaf" if it's broken or bent, there has been abuse.
Also look at the holes in the frame rails at the back - same comment.

Look for water lines, dirt up where is can never get (engine cavity is a good spot), this indicates high water, flooding or off roading.

Foot off the brake, lower and raise the suspension.
Should be smooth. If it's jerky it has not been used enough to keep it well maintained.


Probable immediate maintenance:
Front/Rear crossover pipes, this project also includes new water pump, probably belts, supercharger oil and supercharger coupling, misc other items.
Do it your self level - medium difficulty
Dealer cost to do this is $5-6K.

Brakes of course.
Do it yourself level - easy.

Lower Front Control Arms.
Do it yourself level - easy.

Fuel tank flange recall.
Dealer function - fill it up, park it a while, smell for gasoline at the passenger rear tire.
Dealers have been know to mess up the recall and make the situation worse...

Transmission Pan swap
This is a must do it yourself project, dealerships will not, indy shops might?
Difficulty level - higher end of medium.
If it shifts rough will also need to drop the mechatronic and change the seals - there is a tricky bit to this step.

If you cannot get two keys then get them to throw in a second key and have it programmed and the emergency key cut.
If not, at least get a "blank" fob and program it yourself.
Difficulty - easy.

Keys to roof racks are easy to get.
Keys to the hitch are easy to get, removing the old hitch without a key is simple brute force.
Rebuild kit for the hitch after you beat it to bits to get it out - easy.

Check for the Rover logo on the windshield - if it's missing it's replacement glass.

Check the top of the cowl over the speedometer cluster for sun damage - you won't see it from the normal driving vantage point.

Check the cowl at the outside bottom of the windshield and make sure the "gasket" fits tight to the window.
These cowls warp.
First location to warp is always in front of the passenger.
It's a subtle thing, look closely.
If it's warped it will need to be replaced as leakage at this location puts water on the passenger floorboards.
Do it yourself difficulty - easy.

I have several videos out there on You Tube, user name there is txfromwi, hours and hours of details and great cures for insomnia...

Good Luck!!

Wow- I owe you a beer. That is fantastic stuff and exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Thank you so much! (and I'll definitely check out the YT channel!)

 

[Longtrail]

Welcome - also take a look at this video - it's the V8 but much of the content is relevant:

Can't emphasize enough the timing chains and front/rear crossovers (ideally confirm they've been done, esp. at 100K miles). Air suspension in my opinion shouldn't be a blocker the parts are serviceable; the only big ticket items are air springs and compressor; I agree with txfromwi, play around with the ride height to validate that it works.

​

 

[txfromwi]

I thought the timing chain issue was with the V8? Not the V6????

 

[Longtrail]

I thought the timing chain issue was with the V8? Not the V6????

Ahh yes, you're correct, they upgraded the guides to include the steel contact... My apologies for adding confusion.

 

[txfromwi]

Just making sure I understood correctly...

So with my "fleet" I only need to worry about the tensioners on the 2013...

 

[f1racer328]

Haven't we had a few posts here of timing chains going on the V6?

The upgraded guides came in mid-late 2013. However, with poor oil change intervals it's not going to do an engine any favors.

The crossover pipes grenade way more engines though.

 

[itsaguything]

You are correct on both accounts @f1racer328
As I shared with the OP in another forum... Knowlege of the maintenance history is paramount.

 

[txfromwi]

Can you please clarify "mid to late 2013", is there a way to track my 2013 VIN number vs the re-design date?
Would be nice to know what my future may hold.
Currently at about 90K and sounds like new...
Thanks,