DIY Oil Change for LR4

[ktm525]

"synthetic" is cheap these days (Costco through warren distributing for instance) so no need not to use it. Mobil 1 EP used to mention Ford 925 about a decade back but that was dropped. The 925 spec is obsolete and is related to long life intervals (LR 24k km/ 16k mile OCI) , something you don't want to be doing anyway.

My oil of choice is Mobil1 EP high mileage when it goes on 40% off sale. The high mileage conditioners have dried up any oil seeps. Knock on wood but at 160k miles I have no oil leaks. Nothing has ever been touched (valve covers, vacuum) including the timing chain and tensioners. YMMV.

 

[txfromwi]

It's a Rover, it's finicky, why would anyone use anything other than the recommended oil to save a couple of $.
Rover oil is easily available FCPEuro and AB.

 

[powershift]

Conventional oil meets spec and the manual doesn't say specifically to use synthetic. Yes, I know people put synthetic in it.

 

[ktm525]

It's a Rover, it's finicky, why would anyone use anything other than the recommended oil to save a couple of $.
Rover oil is easily available FCPEuro and AB.

Easy. This engine was designed over 20 years ago. The specifications that were reccomend are old history. The only novel about the 5.0L was the use of 5W-20 (which was much more rare 15 years ago when the LR$ debuted and the 925 FORD spec which related to 5W-20 and long oil change intervals. Recall LR was reccomending 24k km (16k mile OCI). Any modern 5W-20 meets that spec and you are way further ahead dumping the oil at a reasonable mileage considering the biggest threat is fuel dilution due to the DI system.

If having LR approval makes you feel warm and fuzzy then the Liqui Moly alternatives are good if you live in the US but they are double the cost of goos synthetics here. If you have a 2014+ the liqui Molys still don't cover you..

.

 

[RandyLove]

Hey all, thanks for your responses. The reason I'm asking about Eurol EcoPower 5W-20 is because the manufacturer states that their oil meets Land Rover's additive requirements, which I hadn't been able to locate in another oil. I heard Liqui-Moly meets the specs, but wasn't able to find the appropriate motor oil. Admittedly, I was finding myself in a daze searching all the forums and reading all the specs. Many oil manufacturers said it was "suitable" but in the end I was only able to find that literally printed it on their bottle. Little back-story, I now own two 2013 Land Rover LR4s. One that has an engine with a catastrophic rod knock, and another one I just purchased so that I could transfer all of my upgrades onto from the first one. I bought the first LR4 with about 90k miles on it and I was faithful in my oil changes every 5k miles using Mobile1 5w-20 synthetic (high mileage). I had the crossover pipes and water pump replaced, and had the timing chains, guides, and tensioners replaced, among many other bits of maintenance. I loved that vehicle and thought I was doing all the right things. Then all of a sudden one morning, at about 155k miles, I heard the fateful death knell (see linked video). Anyway, I'm just trying to do what's right by the vehicle and learn from my possible mistakes.

Rod knock - 2013 LR4

 

[powershift]

Wow, that is a serious knock problem. Its strange that it didn't progress and that one day it was fine and the next it was there. I'm curious about the benefit of the new 2013 vs a reman engine. Does it have a better body on it?

 

[ktm525]

Hey all, thanks for your responses. The reason I'm asking about Eurol EcoPower 5W-20 is because the manufacturer states that their oil meets Land Rover's additive requirements, which I hadn't been able to locate in another oil. I heard Liqui-Moly meets the specs, but wasn't able to find the appropriate motor oil. Admittedly, I was finding myself in a daze searching all the forums and reading all the specs. Many oil manufacturers said it was "suitable" but in the end I was only able to find that literally printed it on their bottle. Little back-story, I now own two 2013 Land Rover LR4s. One that has an engine with a catastrophic rod knock, and another one I just purchased so that I could transfer all of my upgrades onto from the first one. I bought the first LR4 with about 90k miles on it and I was faithful in my oil changes every 5k miles using Mobile1 5w-20 synthetic (high mileage). I had the crossover pipes and water pump replaced, and had the timing chains, guides, and tensioners replaced, among many other bits of maintenance. I loved that vehicle and thought I was doing all the right things. Then all of a sudden one morning, at about 155k miles, I heard the fateful death knell (see linked video). Anyway, I'm just trying to do what's right by the vehicle and learn from my possible mistakes.

Rod knock - 2013 LR4

Ok first it's Mobil not Mobile, that's a place in Alabama.
Second. You bought used at 90k miles so do you know the history before that?
Third. If you changed at 5k miles both oil and filter then you have done all you could other than perhaps using a thicker viscosity oil.

To beat a dead horse the 925 spec from FORD (not LR) was a low viscosity oil (for fuel economy purposes) which could meet the ridiculous 16k mile OCI. The spec was not to ensure your engine lasted forever rather it was for improved fuel economy. Another stupid requirement up there with replacing the V8 with the supercharged V6.



Fourth and more importantly. Why do you think that is rod knock? If it is 155k miles is starting to get up there for miles with an engine specifying low viscosity oil. Might have been better off as it aged with a thicker 5W-30 or 5W-40...

 

[davidrosenbloom]

I'm in the process of starting to gather some data on oil change intervals within these forums and I wonder if anyone has any input onto how specifically to pose / deliver the question(s) so the most number of members see it? I'm seeking general oil change intervals, brand, visual inspection of interior cleanliness and lack of varnish and sludge and ultimately it'd be a hoot to gather as many blackstone tests as possible. I have a fair methodology for the other end - mechanics and shops specializing in 5.0 chains, but I'd like to get some data from the end users. Any help would be greatly appreciated. direct at: [email protected]