code 41

[joechan18]

I needed to do a smog test, the emission part passed, but the service engine light was on, and they detected code 41, therefore the smog test failed, can anyone tell me what code 41 is? The technician said they need to diagnose it first, fix the problem and then I will need to drive it for about 200 miles or so before I can retest for the smog.

Joe

 

[joey]

http://www.robisonservice.com/servicedep/rover_trouble.asp

No Code 41

Engine Fault Codes

Note: This information is for the 4.0 liter V-8 OBD I (On Board Diagnostics, phase I) Petrol engine that is found in the US. The information may hold for other markets and engines, but we cannot confirm this. It may also be true for Defenders and Range Rovers with the same engine. Again we don't know.

NAS Discoveries have a digital readout for diagnostics. It is a black plastic box measuring approximately 1" x 2.5" x 3" with a red LED readout. It is found under the passenger seat facing backwards. It may be unclipped and moved so that the driver can see it.

This doesn't give nearly as detailed readout at the official test box, but it's better than nothing.
Fault Codes

Jump directly to the fault code:
02 12 14 17 18 19 21 23 25 28 29 34 36 40 44 45 48 50 58 59 68 69 88

General:
The fault codes are given in order of priority. If more than fault exists, you have to clear the display before the next fault code can be displayed.
Fault code 02 meas that the ECU has just been reconnected. Switch on the ignition to clear the display.
Clearing the display
Switch ignition on.
Disconnect serial link mating plug, wait 5 seconds, then reconnect.
Switch ignition off, wait for main relay to drop out.
Switch ignition on. The display should now be reset. If there are other faults, the next one will be displayed. Otherwise the display will be black
If there is more than one fault repeat steps 1 to 4, to clear each fault until the display is blank.
No LED's are on:

Good news; nothing is wrong. Either that or Mr. Lucas has struck and either the LEDs are burned out or the display isn't getting any power.


Code 29 - ECU memory check

If detected all other faults are unreliable and must be ignored.
Procedure:
leave battery connected
switch ignition off
wait for approximately 5 seconds
disconnect ECU plug.
reconnect ECU plug
switch ignition on and check display unit.
If fault code 29 is detected again, swap out the ECU for another one and retest.

Code 44 - Lambda sensor A - left bank
Code 45 - Lambda sensor B - right bank

If one of these fault codes is displayed check the wiring to that particular lambda sensor.

If both codes are displayed, the voltage supply to the heater coils of the sensors must be checked. Refer to test 26, continuity test procedure.

Code 25 - Ignition misfire

This code indicates that an ignition system misfire has been detected. Codes 40 or 50 indicate on which bank the misfire has occurred.

Code 40 - Misfire bank A - left bank
Code 50 - Misfire bank B - right bank

If both codes are displayed, check the following components common to both banks:
Distributor cap
Rotor arm
Coil
Electrical connections
Pick-up (air gap)
Amplifier
Injectors (if code 34 or 36 is displayed)
If either fault code 40 or 50 is displayed check components applicable to the particular bank that the misfire has occurred on.
Spark plugs
HT leads
Distributor cap
Injectors - if code 34 bank A or 36 bank B displayed

Code 12 - Airflow meter

Refer to test 19, continuity test procedure.

Code 21 - fuel tune select

Identifies that the tune select resistor is open circuit- refer to tune select resistor test.

Code 34 - Injector bank A

The display will indicate if the injector(s) are causing the engine to run rich or lean.

If the bank is running rich, check for - faulty injector wiring and connectors, stuck open injectors.

If the bank is running lean, check for - faulty injector wiring and connectors, blocked injectors.

Code 36 - Injector bank B

As code 34, except relevant to bank A injectors.

Code 14 - Coolant thermistor

Refer to test 14, continuity test procedure.

Code 17 - Throttle potentiometer

Refer to test 17, continuity test procedure.

Code 18 - Throttle potentiometer input high/airflow meter low

refer to tests 17, 18, and 19 of the continuity test procedure.

Code 19 - Throttle potentiometer input low/airflow meter high

refer to tests 17, 18, and 19 of the continuity test procedure.

Code 88 - Purge valve leak

refer to test 9 and 10 of the continuity test procedure.

Code 28 - Air leak

check for air leaks in the following areas:
Hose, air flow meter to plenum
Breather system hoses to plenum
Brake servo hose
Vacuum reservoir hose (fresh air solenoid)
Distributor vacuum advance
Hose, purge valve to plenum
Injector seals
Joint - bypass air valve to plenum plenum chamber to ram housing ram housing to inlet manifold inlet manifold to cylinder head bypass air valve hose

Code 23 - Fuel supply

check fuel system pressure, test 20 of continuity test procedure.

Code 48 - Stepper motor

check base idle speed- see setting procedure. Refer to tests 15 and 16 of continuity test procedure. Check road speed sensor- refer to test 25 of continuity test procedure.

Code 68 - Road speed sensor

refer to test 25 of continuity test procedure.

Code 69 Gearswitch

refer to test 24 of continuity test procedure.

Code 58 Group faults 23/28

This indicates that a fault has been registered that is caused by the fuel supply or an air leak but the exact fault cannot be identified. Check all items outlined under codes 23 and 28.

Code 59 Fuel thermistor

Refer to test 13 of the continuity test procedure.

 

[joechan18]

It turned out the technician said the code was P1411, something about the air injection and I needed to bring the car to Somebody more specialize in European car. I live in San Francisco and I don't want to bring to the dealer since they charge too much. Wonder if anybody know a good decent honest mechanic in SF?

Joe

 

[joey]

1411, is probably a broken elbow on the air injection system... if you look on either side of your engine near the back IIRC, you will see the air injection system (one on each side) and you have an air pump... each side has 2 parts IIRC. you can have the engine running and listen closely you can pinch the hose off, when the noise goes away you found which side is the issue. Then it is just a matter of fixing...

Honestly you do need to find either a good Rover mechanic to find/fix the issue quickly or go to the dealer...

I don't know any mechanics on the West coast or I would recommend one. I just know if I were out there I would call call down to "**" or the guys at http://www.expeditionexchange.com/ and ask them... they may know someone in the area. They are in LA, so I wouldn't suggest driving down.

 

[joechan18]

Thanks for the info, I will go to this guy who have service my car before, slight expensive but I need to get this done soon.

Joe

 

[joechan18]

Thank for the info, I will have this one mechanic work on it, slight expensive but I need to get this done and drive it for a while before smog test again.

Joe