I don't think it's normal for LR4's to eat batteries quite that rapidly. My previous battery (H7 / 94R) lasted about 7 years. When it failed suddenly, I replaced it with the larger H8/49 AGM, which is still going strong after 4 years. I do keep the truck plugged into a maintainer with full-time...
Measured at the battery with a good multimeter, when fully charged the battery should be close to 12.6 volts after sitting overnight, with no load applied (ignition OFF).
The instrument cluster display and/or GAP IID may show slightly less due to voltage drop through the various electrical...
15V is abnormally high voltage. If the alternator is original, the regulator might be on the way out? Use an accurate meter to verify the displayed voltage is correct.
Frequent fluid changes are more likely to extend transmission / clutch lifespan, vs any shift program change that makes shift engagement firmer. Factory-stock "soft" shifts don't cause excess wear, but flaring due to abnormal slippage will cause rapid wear from the clutch pack.
Agree 110% with this: ^^^
Valve body modifications / upgrades are not something you do "just because". If there's a specific shift problem that isn't cured with new fluid & filter, and the ZipKit claims to fix that specific problem, THEN give it a try.
:rock:
I'm hoping for a lot more than 200kmi. Currently just over 160k with original filter... have drained/refilled the pan twice which only replaces 3.5 quarts at a time. I need to do that again, and eventually replace the filter & convert to the metal pan...
And finally, I created a thread detailing the new fuel flange/filter as part of the TSB:
https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/how-to-diy-upgrade-to-new-style-fuel-tank-flange-filter.45756/
Here are photos of the OLD, ORIGINAL, DEFECTIVE DESIGN fuel tank flange with integrated filter. This is what I removed from my tank after 12 years / 160kmi, thankfully it had not yet started leaking.
This part number appears to still be available new, although I don't know why anyone would want...
First photo below shows the new filter inserted into the bracket, ready for installation into the tank.
Second photo shows the filter+bracket installed in the tank.
Third shows the new flange partially installed.
Fourth photo shows the new flange in place and lock ring installed.
Last photo...
The new filter has to attach to something, since it's no longer mounted directly to the flange like the old one. This plastic bracket is what the new filter connects to. The filter is a TIGHT fit into the bracket. It will click into place when seated.
The bracket+filter assembly snaps forward...
Most LR4 owners are aware of the TSB RCRIT-21V635-5779 from early 2022, for "Gasoline Fuel Tank Flange Assembly Cracking". The full PDF is at this link. What's not clear in the TSB is what the new parts look like. There have been some threads in the past (like this one) discussing confusion...
What website implies the Nokian R5 is "not compatible"? Discount Tire doesn't complain when I select these for an LR4:
https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/nokian-hakkapeliitta-r5-suv/p/117605
I just bought a set of new Blizzak DM-V2 for the LR4... but have not yet driven on snow or ice...
Finally, here are the first 5 of 10 photos of the new OEM Continental VDO pump. Note the JLR markings of AJ133 (Jaguar V8 engine), L320 (Range Rover chassis code this pump was originally used on), and "FDM" (Fuel Delivery Module).
Original part number: LR014997
Latest / superceded part...
Last photos shows attaching the pipes & electrical connector to the new/updated (beige) flange, and finally the new flange installed with new O-ring, and lock ring locked in place.
Note how short the wires are for the sensor connections, this is why I opted to not cut them off and use crimp...
First & second photo shows the new pump installed.
Third shows the new style filter+bracket before installation.
Fourth shows the new style filter+bracket installed, note it blocks most of the access portal to the tank.
First photo shows the original (white) flange before it was removed. The metal lock ring is still in place.
Second & third photos show the useless tool.
Fourth photo shows the flange removed AND fuel pump also removed.
I recently did this job on our LR4, and I couldn't find any existing "How To" threads with detailed instructions on what's needed to do this job, or details about the pump itself. Figured I'd write it up before I forget how I did it. The original pump had 160kmi on it, details of the failure are...
Follow-up about the quick-connect fittings on the fuel hose, and vent tubing. I figured there must be special tools to make this easier. I found the Lisle pliers shown below for ~$20 each, and have both coming from Amazon, for the next time I have to deal with these fittings. In tight spaces I...
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