A couple of observations. I think eventually all LR4s without the updated tensioner shoes will sport the loose chains at some mileage even if oil changes are at 5k or less intervals. I think this will prolong the eventuality but not keep it from happening as the hardened steel tensioner piston...
probably totally unrelated unless perhaps you left some wires/sensors disconnected. I would check battery voltage with dvm. if 12.5 or so or better then check the main ground line to the block. It is known to corrode and if you spilled coolant on it that could be the issue. remove the securing...
one more thing, if you are brave and perhaps wish to fit a used oem hitachi, the full size RR from similar years is the same compressor except the harness plug and of course the pressure tanks apparatus. The reason i mention this is that the full size RR compressor is fitted inside the vehicle...
probably a leak. best as other say, use Gap tool to diagnose but iff you do not have one, you can start by pulling the fuse for the EAS and let sit overnight. see if both front sides drop. You can also spray fairy soap solution on all of the jusnctions, the bags and the resovoir. look for...
Thanks RR. Actually when i went out this morning and it was actually light where i was working the pipe was seated correctly. I guess old eyes and darkish work space combined to make it look incorrect. I then proceeded to the rear heat manifold..boy that was is always fun. Finally all buttoned...
Hello,
I tackled my son's 2011 LR4 5.0 cooling system today. front/rear crossovers, waterpump, thermostat and housing etc. Going smooth except those &^#( spring hose clamps. I like them ok but since never removed since new, they are stubborn as are the hoses. Anyhow, Quick question, pulled the...
when my sons's Lr4 was having compressor issues [hitachi original, i believe]. the mount was broken in two and the pump was clearly struggling as PO ran it with a buggered up front block for a while, i think. the front would drop within 2 days sitting. Anyhow, while i was sourcing an oem...
i would source an oem unit; Expect about a third of that cost if you do and install the compressor yourself [a bit fiddly but pretty easily done in your garage or driveway]. Need to verify if your vehicle has AMK [probably] or Hitachi compressor and order like type. The amazon/ebay units are...
College son drives the LR4 [v8 hse lux]; it now has 106k miles. Been looking for a D5 for the wife but want a newer one with the ingenium inline 6/48volt electric boost....seems to be a unicorn here on the east coast. A number of them are available 2021 and before with the SCv6. Actually after...
IMHO, the Lr4 was pretty cutting edge on the tech side when it came out. A lot of those systems are more "fragile" then the typical suv-truck set up like traditional coil springs and shocks etc. The plastic cooling parts really suck but if not mistaken BMW started this many years prior to the...
i would just get one of the cheapo ebay ones or perhaps a good southern car junk yard special. its not like the winch is rocket science. I think the ebay ones are like $60
AFIK, the aftermarket only makes the aluminum replacemenet crossovers for the SCv6 3.0. Seems like it would not be that difficult to make it for the NA v8 but i guess the demand must be rather low.
how old is your spare? Most times, spares are the age of the vehicle and the TPMS batteries have long since died. The LR4 system is dynamic and as soon as it reads correct pressure from the snesors it will turn off the light..sometimes takes a fefw miles of driving. this system also has a small...
wow, interesting things breaking on your LR4: lower steering shaft? not common, i dont think. You are correct, parts [OE] are kind of expensive but some of the chineseuim stuff is just crap; even it is my lobor, this beast is enough trouble to work on that i dont want to do many of the things...
for the suspension bushings i really like the meyle HD LCAs. Rubber bushings that ride almost as nice as oem but should outlast them. Previous owner's shop fitted green stuff pads...they stop and perform well but make a lot of dust. I am happy with the 5.0 v8 performance as is.
replaced my front LCAs about 10k miles ago (around 90k miles on the clock). The uppers front and rear look basically new. there must be another problem your disco has that is causing the wear on the UCAs
i would suspect the driveshaft carrier bearing for the thumping noises. As for the other, ours ate its transfer case bearings last year. started out as a small whine and continued to get louder. eventually was very loud and had to have the t-case replaced at about 90k miles.
Ok my son's 2011 v8. Started it up yesterday [coldish morning 30 f], pretty audible whine coming from front at idle. continued to whine for a fefw minutes. when warmed it whine went away. Sounded kind of like a bearing whine. any ideas? perhaps idler bearing for belt? alternator bearing? Not...
while i would not reuse lca bolts, i have reused shock absorber bolts previously and they were fine. if they have excessive rust or damaged threads i would not
i believe the early lr3 ones were textured black and the last year model or so were smooth painted to match body color as wtih the LR4. You would need the smooth one for painting purposes
Ok, so I had Michelin LTX premier tires 255-55-19 on our '11 LR4HSE Lux. These tires ride great, handle well wet and dry but they are nearly completely worn out after 18,000 miles. tread left is less that 4/32". Anyhow, tire dealer offers some credit prorated dfor the 60k mile stated by...
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