Yes! Right next to it... it’s fast to take off. One electrical connection, four hoses (if I remember correctly), and slide it up and off...
You can rebuild in the comfort of your home with favorite beverage while you warm your hands.
Good luck. Let us know if you have troubles...
Sent from...
Glad you’re happy with your decision. This is a LR4 thread so no need to troll or throw shade on our decision to own one. I’ve owned 12 land rovers. Mostly classics and one p38. I’ll never dump on anyone’s decision to own what they own.
I’ve never regretted owning any of my LRs. They’ve all...
I made the move to Mobil 0w20 and have noticed a smoother running engine and improved fuel economy. I’d like to see the internals but not $5000 badly. I’m at 130k on the clock and all indications are everything is tight. Change every 5k which is probably overkill, but I’d rather that with how...
ignorance is bliss man! Why’d you have to go and show us that? Lol. I like thinking my 5k oil changes keep things from looking that way in there...now I’m not gonna sleep
There’s someone selling a gap iid on Facebook for $375. Great price.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/443195469850432/permalink/537293080440670?sale_post_id=537293080440670&sfns=mo
If anyone is curious...after a frustrating couple of days, I solved the issue. The initial dirty tb must have tricked the computer values and the frequent restricted performance messages were sporadic and unpredictable. I did multiple “clear adaptations” to no avail. Then after cleaning the...
exactly. The valves are sensitive to particles pushed through them. You may even be able to just clean your valve without even replacing the o rings. It took me all of 20 minutes to rebuild mine. Simple really
I’d rule out electrical, the compressor, and the exhaust line. If your fault is...
best maintenance is new drier beads in the compressor, especially if you live someplace that is humid or salty (ie not California or Arizona)
:D:driver:
you only need one kit. The center kit in the photo is what you need.
the valve block sits right in front of the compressor. I used my gap tool to deflate the system down to bump stops (definitely want to do this).
this is what the block looks like
Yes, your valve block that sits near the compressor is likely the cause. With mine, just needed new o rings. Can get a kit on amazon or eBay. Just clean the block internals and fit new o rings.
@atlanticbritish will hopefully care...I’ve had similar experiences with them in the past. Unfortunate that this issue still persists. I have not ordered from them in some time as there are others that are more than happy to provide exceptional customer service when things are not right...
Yes, that would make sense. Air is more dense when it’s cold, and your throttle body is slightly smaller in cold temps. Even the slightest variation with a little carbon buildup could cause.
go to autozone and pull codes. Free
You can even go ahead and clean your throttle body without pulling codes. My guess is it’s got some carbon buildup. If it stops going into restricted performance, that’s your cause. Make sure to get around the pivots on the butterfly
Gap Diagnostics IID. It’s basically the same diagnostic programs and capabilities the dealership has in a obdII reader that fits in the glovebox and connects via Bluetooth to an iPhone or Android. May be the handiest piece of equipment I own.
you actually can get them down to $30 for 6 mos. I do it every six mos. they read from a script. I’ve even had them give me a free 3 month trial at the end of the call when I said, “no thanks, I really do want to quit”
Alright folks! So here’s a stumper. Had the passenger side valve cover replaced and picked up the truck last week. It was running great. Then proceeded to get a p2118-19 code. Restricted performance and the works. Dirty throttle body.
Assumed it was due to running lean for about 100 miles...
The codes? If it’s p2118-19 it’s Likely a dirty throttle body. Do a really good job of cleaning (it doesn’t take much to make that code trip). I also got a code for the MAP sensor (sits right behind the throttle body).
my money it’s this
I would definitely get that checked out. Not normal. Could be a variety of causes and fortunately you are still under warranty. Doesn’t sound like anything major- but every harsh shift puts undue stress on the transmission so it could cause problems down the road if not addressed quickly.
could be as simple as low fluid in trans. These zf transmissions hate to be even slightly low. As fluid heats, it expands, which is possibly why you get the harsh shift.
I’d definitely get it looked at and documented with lr sooner rather than later.
That’s covered in many other discussion boards (I say that in the nicest possible way). It’s all a matter of preference and everyone has an opinion.
biggest part is frequency. Lots of folks get geeked out over oil and some really good discussions on this board previously
Yep! I thought so. Some will not do the deal stating their equipment can’t do it, but most of the new ones will. I had one shop say no, but two others agree. Don’t quote me on the price...but I know it was not much more than a single alignment. Well worth it in my book. For as long as you own...
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