Ck out FCP euro, lifetime warranty. After the first oil change, all others only cost you shipping. I use the package and bottles that come with each new oil change to package up my old oil and return. Cost me $18 for my oil changes.
FWIW, the new design that I am installing on my 2015 LR4 (80k)looks much stronger, and appears to be almost twice as thick in some areas. My old pipe was totally fine as well, but one of the pipes that goes into the block did break off BELOW the oring when I removed. The other side was fine. So...
Did you figure out where the two longer machine T30 screws go? These are the 25mm T30, the shorter ones are 20mm. I am guessing they go in the front cross pipe that attaches to the block.
UPDATE: Based on the two T30’s that hold the upper pipe to the snout are much longer, I am using the two...
Regarding the small pipe that goes between the oil cooler and waterpump. There is a flange mid way, does that need to be oriented in a way that it’s against the block or does matter. I did not pay attention before I removed, but I am guessing the thick side of the flange fits against the block?
Thanks. Another question, can't really tell if the coolant was originally Pink or Orange (Dex), as it's been diluted to 50/50, and it's 6 years old. What did you guys go back with?
What sealant did you use, I thinking about Loctite 518 or similar due to it being machine surfaces mating. Looks like some are using anaerobic like 518.
Regardless, I’m glad to see them using the BMW 6. Definitely considering one down the road, as my wife’s 2015 LR4 will be our last newer LR. Hate the new body styles.
I would guess somewhere around 300-400K, if engine is never overheated, and frequent 5-7.5K oil changes. Or, you could take a compression and leakdown every 150K to track it...
I am guessing No, but just wanted to ck, are you guys using any sealant on the following: WP, Intake, IC to SC? I usually install metal gaskets dry. The only place that I see using sealant is the Snout to SC.
The fan is so easy to remove once the top piece is off, I’d just remove the fan so you don’t risk damaging/bending radiator cooling fins trying to wiggle the shroud out. Left hand threaded.Takes maybe 2min to remove.
SO I was just looking at the new front pipes, specifically the lower "Y" pipe, and upper pipe, and both appear MUCH thicker then the old pipe, as well as the internal coolant flow area being smaller, due to thicker walls, just in comparison with sticking my fingers in and feeling. I can't fit my...
Update for the weekend. I worked on the truck a few hours Sat/Sun/Mon, going slow and taking my time and got the following accomplished:
1) All Coolant hoses removed.
2) Belts removed: I have tensioners for both belts with a 3/8 hole to insert a ratchet extension. I was thinking I would have to...
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