Can't beat the user interface for IID tool, but I don't consider it the easiest way to work with EAS. I think if you want that I would look at XLifter. It also lets you self level the vehicle.
But anything is better than supporting the manipulative lying Johnson rods people.
I just got a set of front runner drawers today. Working on an inside sleeping platform setup.
I put an xlifter on my LR4 recently, its pretty nice kit. The leveling pitch/roll for camping is going to be amazing. No more fuss leveling it out (which was even just annoying for cooking on the...
Ya, I always carry one of these both for my own backup on trips/off grid and also so I can help people out. I don't spend so much on a capable rig to turn people down and not help.
Voyager low profile rack. I've had mine for a long time and it's been great. No rust issues on it. It bolts straight into the roof in the 8 locations with standoffs. No rails.
Gas tank skid uses some of the existing bolts, but yes, goes over the existing gas tank support. The existing metal support is very thin and not a skid at all, but it does support he plastic tank and you still need it to be in place. The t44 skids all go on pretty easily.
I can let you know.
I have the transfer case skid and gas tank skids too. They are all in great shape still. The one spot on the gas tank inner side was repaired. I had them coated with that zincnation coating and then powder coated.
I may put them up for sale, but a friend with an LR3 in...
my voyager ladder from 2013 did the same and I sent it back to them to get it stripped and redone. It's been better this time around. My sliders from the same time did rust very badly. I think they just didn't (or still don't, not sure) do a very nice job with powder coat and didn't have...
it's not too horrible, but I think it looses some of the nice lines and unique character of that rear window. Its one reason I didn't go with black paint because it looked more like a van without the contrast from the glass lines.
Yes, mine did the same thing even though I had spray sealant on the pan side. I redid it this summer with the same type of gasket before I knew about this other gasket. I put sealant on both sides and it doesn't seem to leak now. I just today got my LubeLocker gasket delivered. Holy how it...
I just ordered this gasket. I may just redo the fluid and take the pan off one more time (third time's the charm) and change to this gasket and a new filter. Fluid should be well flushed by then.
I might do them, I actually have the front crossover part on hand. But honestly I am not as concerned about it as the forums make you think. I have inspected them and they are not discolored or cracked. I have an ultragauge on my dash just to monitor coolant temps.
I have 75k on my 2013. Never touched the water pump or crossovers. Both look fine and I have pressure tested the cooling system. Easy to test with a vacuum coolant filler.
I have done all the fluids. Rear, middle, front diffs, xfer case, transmission pan and fluid twice, coolant, steering...
Old photo, but this was my 26' Sea Ray bow rider. Dual axel trailer with hitch actuated trailer brakes. LED lights that worked, but didn't have enough current draw to trip the trailer mode on the LR4.
Weight must have been just about 7,000 lbs. I used the factory hitch setup. The second...
I can't believe people even try to bleed like all this ^^ ..... its nuts. Just get one of these vacuum filler tools. It seriously takes me 5 minutes total to fill my coolant after I drain it. I have never touched the bleed points on my engine... ever. Plus I am sure the system is leak...
The fold out solar array would need to be absolutely massive to do any good over a few hours charge time. :D
But ya, agreed. I feel spoiled by the capability, payload, size of the LR4 while still being somewhat small, not very long and having amazing turning radius. Even in town I kinda...
Ya, you can only check by using roughly the same procedure. You have to warm it up a little, crack the fill bolt and check the fluid drip. No dipstick or anything.
I have serious distrust of dealers and even mechanics. Very few seem to care about details and very few seem to lookup the...
I assume this thing is going to be crazy heavy. I really want to know what the payload is going to be.
Probably the largest downside IMO is just size. It looks very full sized. I guess the crab walk would help in some scenarios but I am so used to LR4 width at this point.
when filling the fluid, in the fill hole/bolt. Engine running, let it warm a bit, shift through D/R/N/P (without moving the vehicle)... then get back under while engine is still running, fill it up until it starts dripping out... not a constant stream, but a moderate speed drip. Then put the...
make sure you have the right fluid level. Truck has to be running when you fill the trans fluid. Warm it up slightly and fill till it is dripping a couple times a second.
Just curious what you use the extra fuel for? You don't seem to be setup for remote travel. Having fuel on my roof freaks me out. Fuel containers need to be vented every so often or they just deform a lot as you change altitude or they heat up and cool Having it horizontal in the sun would...
That seems like higher PSI than I would expect, but that and the tires/wheels shouldn't be the issue. Are you sure something else isn't wrong with your suspension? Sway bar disconnected or loose? Wheel speed sensors?
I actually think a lot less of an owner who puts johnson rods or any rods on an L319. But ya, the compos are a nice add, they are expensive.
See if the transmission pan is plastic or metal (upgrade, implies they changed the fluid too). Make sure if you buy it to baseline all the fluids...
The 10s and 12s share the same everything, except gear ratio. I'll take line speed over stronger single line pulls. I've single and double line pulled with my 10-s about a dozen times. It does great even on single line pulls with my heavy ass LR4.
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