Search results
-
Dreaded rear hatch actuator issue!
Sounds like you have a sticky latch. Have you tried lubing it? I like using CRC Heavy Duty Silicone spray on everything. It doesn't attract dust or dirt and leaves a thing silicone film for lubrication. I would lube it, use a philips screw driver to lock the latch, unlock the latch, lube some... -
Chip in windshield
Just be careful that some repair kits may have conductive properties and if you have a heated windshield, that can cause issues down the road. -
Best rack for LR4 without factory rails
Here's my opinion on the topic of form and function vs aesthetics, I'll take function all day. When I was in the market for a roof rack a few years ago, I was into the appearance of Prospeed. It had THE sleekest look and aerodynamics, but look at them now (discontinued). They moved on to a more... -
sucking air between engine and transmission
Have you changed out the valve cover gaskets? If you haven't, that's the most common cause for oil leaks. Just take care of it before it gets on your alternator and creating more issues. -
Timing Chain loose in the wrong place?
The LR4 isn't too bad. It's just getting to each part requires lots of effort. I would also recommend removing the cam sprockets from the cams to clean out the sludge build up. If you need any help, feel free to reach out, but I feel like you got this one. -
Timing Chain loose in the wrong place?
Oh nice you're in Oceanside? I'm in El Cajon. If you haven't replaced the timing guides on both banks, you should. The tensioner contact point on the little metal button on the guides tend dent inwards out of shape. You can technically reuse your tensioner, but I'd replace them. With the new... -
Battery Change - Dealer/Indy versus big box store - Reset computer?
Our trucks are electrically very sensitive. The PWM charging system is very aggressive and it would behoove you to run a battery reset when replacing the battery to allow the charging profile to adapt to the new battery vs applying an older/degraded charging profile on a new battery. Will it... -
Higher output alternator?
For those that need/want a picture of F60 and the position of the piggyback fuse pigtal, here you go. It's suppose to be DCC for "Direct Current Charger", and the white paint pen made it look weird. -
Dreaded rear hatch actuator issue!
Everyone needs to do this while they're at it. https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/lr3-lr4-required-upgrade-prevent-rear-door-failure-for-25.159873/ Land Rover Passion made one of their own too. https://www.landroverpassion.com/en/product/lrp-upper-tailgate-kit-for-discovery-l319/ This... -
-
LR4 Transmission Fluid Change: Pan Swap Option
I'd 100% get it from FCP Euro. -
Default air temp at startup w/auto climate
For those with similar minor electrical gremlins, one of the easiest things to do is a hard reset. A hard reset will default everything back to factory settings. Here's the hard reset, provided by Russ Goff from another forum I'm on. Open a window, ignition off, shut doors, wait 2 minutes... -
Cars and Bids LR4 Purchase & More
Save your money for the Gap IID Tool, it can do it all. You can replace the battery with an H8, but the charging profile will be associated to the previous configuration, which could degrade your new battery. I don't have much experience with any oem style lug nuts either. I've swapped out to... -
Low Coolant Light
The best way that I found was to open the expansion tank and remove the intake harmonic tubes to access/disconnect the gray coolant connector near the throttle body to fill coolant. That line runs between the lower rear block to the expansion tank overflow and filling it guarantees coolant is in... -
Cars and Bids LR4 Purchase & More
@D_Walt You're doing the right things. Keep it up. If you're a DIYer, I highly recommend getting a Gap IID Tool BT. The tool is a bit pricey, but worth it's weight in gold. The charging fault with a new battery could mean a few things. First off, replacing the battery will require you to reset... -
LR4 5.0 (2012) engine bay rattle when cold
I would check for any loose items for the noise. It's possible that the engine doesn't shake as much after it warms up and the noise goes away. The fan shroud, engine cover, side rubber engine covers, and other plastic items could be the culprit. -
LR4 5.0 (2012) engine bay rattle when cold
It sounds normal, I wouldn't worry about it. -
Lr4 3.0 battery
Try disconnecting the bms connector on the (-) negative post. Your alternator should put out steadily at 13.8v. Typically replacing the battery requires a battery reset for Land Rovers to relearn the pwm charging profile to properly charge your new battery. Here's a very detailed (27 minutes... -
Low Coolant Light
You definitely have a big air pocket. Next time check to see if your upper coolant hose is squished before opening the expansion tank. @txfromwi basically said the best way to fill coolant to your engine block is through the port in the picture. I have the 5.0, and I've used a syringe to fill... -
Low Coolant Light
Did you do the work yourself? What year is your LR4? There might be air pockets in the engine. You need to monitor the engine temps, if you have the gap iid tool, you can watch the live values. There are 2 sets of Engine Coolant Temperature values, 1 before and 1 after the thermostat. If the... -
More Tailgate Drama...Upper gate pops with FOB but does not release
I've had this mod in for years and it's flawless. The best part is, if I sleep in the truck I can still open the hatch from inside. I would agree with @ryanjl that it could be a bad wire. You can probably ohm test your wires for continuity and if the wires are good it's the switch. You can... -
Changed Auxiliary Battery, Now What?
Would be pretty cool if you stuffed a 100Ah Lithium battery under there for all your accessories, if the start/stop eco doesn't work. -
The XLifter EAS Controller
I have it running off of the acc wire. Tapped into the fuse block behind the glove box. -
Long crank, no faults
I just came out of 22*F weather out of Big Bear, CA yesterday and with as much snow as your profile pic @Jimmy Brooks. Just spit balling here. Your truck probably isn't acclimated to the cold weather. Vacuum and fuel pressure is probably a lot lower than "normal". It probably took a bit longer... -
Camshaft Sensor and Low Oil Level..
1. You have 4 cam position sensors, bank 1 and bank 2 for each intake and exhaust sensors. They are the same sensors and could be moved around. There's 2 T30 screws and plug holding it. Super easy to replace, but you'll need to remove the fan and serpentine belt to get to bank 1, bank 2 you'll...
