Well, after waiting 6 weeks for a rear mane seal, I finally have my LR4 back. In total the whole thing was $3750 for a brand new remanufactured transmission and a new rear mane seal. Cant lie it was a pain in the ass communicating with the shop but I’m stoked to have the rig back. Transmission...
3500 was the best I was quoted for a remanufactured/new trans with labor and a rear mane seal included. Most places in California will try to charge you 5500-6500 for a rebuild/remanufactured transmission and labor.
Believe your talking about the fuel pump flange. They just issued a recall about it. I’ll link the forum.
https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/new-recall-alert-fuel-system.43336/
I had heard that around the forum. Normally the e clutch is the first one to give but I guess it depends on Where you live and if you face hills on the daily basis
I’ve been having issues with the tranny for a while in very hot temperatures, Probably since about 100k. It would slip between changes 3-4 when on harder acceleration or accelerating up a hill. I had fluids checked and my valve body inspected and everyone said everything looked good. That’s when...
Yesterday I was driving back from La Quinta in California and my transmission, which has been strong for 136k decided it did not want to hold 5th gear anymore. Car would be in 5th gear the RPM would judder a little bit and then it would throw itself into 6th with a little thump until finally it...
I replaced mine a couple of years ago because the grey/black started coming off, never had an issue though. Might be the button you bought itself. Did you buy it off of an OEM parts site?
Mines gotten pretty bad too. I matched my front tint to the rear tint (15%) about 7 months ago which seemed to help a ton with heat reduction as well as putting a front shade up helps. I try to condition it with leather conditioner around ever month but California still gets the best of it...
I live in California and I have this issue badly, I tinted the front with ceramic and shade the front window but it’s worn to the point where the brown skin of the leather has decayed. I’m convinced they I’ll have to replace the whole door panel. I have an HSE LUX. Any solutions other then a...
I got tired of this happening even with the OEM clips and I ended up just superglueing the top clip to the female port on the A-pillar since I knew I had no reason to go in there. Did that about 3 months ago and haven’t had an issue with it since.
well good. I Guess some time away from the beast really made me forget. I’ll send a video of a cold start probably tomorrow but I guess I’m just being haunted by the ghost of timing guides.
Yup I’ll do it tomorrow when I start it up for the first time. Do you hear any sort of Cain noise though? I feel like it’s more audible in person but it sounds like rattle slapping and I haven’t heard it until I got back. Such a warming welcome home!!
I know we’ve seen enough of these threads but I’m fairly confident that after leaving the truck sitting for 9 days while I was on vacation I was greeted with a dead battery and the chain rattle. This is the first time I’ve heard it and it seems to go away after the truck has been running for a...
I think it’s very possible it could be my upper control arms. It’s odd because sometimes it will shake but other times it won’t. Is there any specific test or things i could do to confirm it’s the upper control arms? I wouldn’t rather throw money blindly at the situation.
So it’s been over 2 years and I still get some steering wheel shake at higher speeds from 75Mph< I’ve done LCA’s sway bar links and mounts, rebalanced the wheels multiple times and still happens. The steering sometimes will go light when under moderate power (3500ish rpm) at like 70 ish mph. So...
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