Most people around here just put all seasons on their AWD vehicle and call it a day. Then the first bit of snow shows up and it becomes clear that everyone forgot how to drive in the snow over the previous 9 months. I've only come across one other person in my burb that has studded tires on a...
What are the codes? Inspection station is only going to care about emissions and maybe safety.
Do not clear the codes. What the inspection station is looking for is a distance of *** (250?) miles since the last time codes were cleared. The assumption the inspection station makes from that...
The markup is from the manufacturer. I was in a rush and bought a quart of transmission fluid from the dealer. Parts counter told me they get charged $80 for it.
Had a CJR dealership been nearby I'd have gone there. A ZF 8 speed is a ZF 8 speed, they're all going to use the same fluid.
This is the opposite of "ain't got no gas in it". You've got gas where you aren't supposed to. I bet if you aimed for 3/4 full when pumping your problem goes away. Problem with this solution is that given the MPGs of these things that'll leave you with about 150 miles of range.
Might be motor mounts. With the hood open how much do you see the engine move when you rev it up? You can also check the clearance between the intake pipe and the fan shroud.
I remember being good about scrolling through the pictures quickly looking for the buttons near the shift dial. There was nothing more maddening than seeing an ad with "HSE Lux, all the options" only to see that there's no HD.
I'd probably make a quick check for an intake leak and if I didn't find anything my next move would be new MAF sensors.
I doubt it is exhaust related because the fuel trims on each bank are moving together. Same goes for fuel injectors.
If you want to get real hacky before buying parts a...
My decision tree has evolved from emptying the parts bazooka at the problem to doing a combination of things that are low effort and cheap.
Check the intake pipe first. Easiest thing to do and is free. If it has a crack you could fix it for less than a dollars worth of electrical tape.
If your fuel trim is positive that indicates that your O2 sensor thinks the motor is running lean.
Check the intake between the MAFs and throttle body for cracks. Fuel system treatment might help if an injector is a little clogged. A slight exhaust leak could also present as a lean condition...
There's nothing external. There's some plastic item in the block that has something to do with the flow. I can't remember the name though. Doesn't show up on the engine block parts diagram. Hopefully someone else can be a little more helpful.
Depends on your budget, last time I looked a new denso was over $500. I'd probably check the life on the brushes. If they look good still I'd hit it with compressed air and some electronics cleaner.
Based on the amount of rust, I'm going to guess that it is original.
During reassembly after putting in the remanufactured motor I looked at those two plastic splash panels for a few hours trying to figure out the orientation.
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