Should I keep

[Mike Sutton]

I own a 2013, Range Rover Sport; non supercharged.

The car has 136,000 miles on it. I just paid $5,000 on a water pump, thermostat, cross over pipes and belts.
Now I am hearing a knocking noise and the mechanic says it’s the timing chain which will be 24 hours @ $250 per hour and of course the parts; $9,000. It is still worth fixing to me so I have a car but at some point need to pull the plug.

I have not touched the valve train but this could be next.

Any suggestions on what other experiences might also pop up at this age?

As an FYI:
I have already replace the air suspension, control arms and drained the Trasmission fluid which is a big job because you have to disassemble the crossmember and exhaust.

Got to stop the bleeding at some point hopefully not now

 

[alldazed]

It’s a difficult decision but I have a 2011 Range Rover sport but supercharged with similar mileage. I have owned it 5 years and in my opinion been very fortunate with it so far. It had been dealer serviced when I bought it and I have done everything since. A water pump, an o ring on the crossovers was leaking- aluminum on the sc- so I replaced that at the same time. Both front sway bar linkages, the front electronic suspension valve and changed the oils in front / rear diffs , transfer case and transmission fluid with the Atlantic British supplied kit to alleviate removing exhaust/ cross member and makes future fluid replacement easier. Obviously oil / filter changes but every 5k for those.
Timing chain had fortunately been done before my ownership. Not sure if you have the Active Cornering Enhancement option but that is a potential expense if the active sway bars start leaking. My rear one did but power steering stop leak has greatly helped. Replacement of the bar is the only option which means lifting the body a few inches off the frame.
I do everything myself and my aim is to keep it going to 180,000 miles / 300,000 km as I am in Canada. Looks like you are in California so corrosion shouldn’t be an issue as it is here.
I do spend money on decent tools to speed up the jobs but I don’t think I would own it if I had to rely on shops to do the work.
As an aside your quote for the timing chain sounds about right but when your trans fluid was done as mentioned above there is an acknowledged short cut using genuine ZF parts that a knowledgeable Indy should know unless you are going to the dealer ?
It’s hard to know how much of the suspension work you had done was really necessary without knowing symptoms. Maybe get another quote / opinion re the noise too. Hope that helps a bit. If you keep it you should do the diff / transfer case fluids too. Prevention is better than cure.

 

[Mike Sutton]

It’s a difficult decision but I have a 2011 Range Rover sport but supercharged with similar mileage. I have owned it 5 years and in my opinion been very fortunate with it so far. It had been dealer serviced when I bought it and I have done everything since. A water pump, an o ring on the crossovers was leaking- aluminum on the sc- so I replaced that at the same time. Both front sway bar linkages, the front electronic suspension valve and changed the oils in front / rear diffs , transfer case and transmission fluid with the Atlantic British supplied kit to alleviate removing exhaust/ cross member and makes future fluid replacement easier. Obviously oil / filter changes but every 5k for those.
Timing chain had fortunately been done before my ownership. Not sure if you have the Active Cornering Enhancement option but that is a potential expense if the active sway bars start leaking. My rear one did but power steering stop leak has greatly helped. Replacement of the bar is the only option which means lifting the body a few inches off the frame.
I do everything myself and my aim is to keep it going to 180,000 miles / 300,000 km as I am in Canada. Looks like you are in California so corrosion shouldn’t be an issue as it is here.
I do spend money on decent tools to speed up the jobs but I don’t think I would own it if I had to rely on shops to do the work.
As an aside your quote for the timing chain sounds about right but when your trans fluid was done as mentioned above there is an acknowledged short cut using genuine ZF parts that a knowledgeable Indy should know unless you are going to the dealer ?
It’s hard to know how much of the suspension work you had done was really necessary without knowing symptoms. Maybe get another quote / opinion re the noise too. Hope that helps a bit. If you keep it you should do the diff / transfer case fluids too. Prevention is better than cure.

Thanks for all this. Yes forgot about the rear sway bar as that was done by the dealer under warranty and yes, I also changed out differential oil. Now you got my attention on this transmission oil pan. Sounds like there is an aftermarket one that has a drain plug? I assume you have to remove everything to replace the old one, wish I knew about that or wish it was recommended to me back when the job was done.

 

[alldazed]

Thanks for all this. Yes forgot about the rear sway bar as that was done by the dealer under warranty and yes, I also changed out differential oil. Now you got my attention on this transmission oil pan. Sounds like there is an aftermarket one that has a drain plug? I assume you have to remove everything to replace the old one, wish I knew about that or wish it was recommended to me back when the job was done.

If you go to Atlanticbritish.com they sell the transmission pan conversion kit and have a video to do it. I did it on my back in the garage , suspension in off road height and on 4 ramps, not lucky enough to have a hoist. Did not remove cross member or exhaust. I raised the back of the transmission a little with a bottle Jack and used 1/4 inch drive sockets as there is very little room to work but it is doable. The reason it works is because you are replacing the zf one piece plastic pan with integrated filter - which you cut off so you don’t need the clearance to remove it and replace it with a separate filter and metal pan. It’s a zf pan designed for that transmission so capacity is the same. I believe about 6 million of those trannies were built and they were put in a variety of vehicles which is why other pans are available.
A good Indy shop should be aware of this but I’m afraid I can’t help you there. There is a lot of info on the lr4 forum to re transmission and common engine/suspension problems that are largely transferable to the RR. Also maybe of interest to you is the ongoing keep or sell discussions . They are unique vehicles that do most things very well. I love mine and the supercharger adds another dimension.

 

[Mike Sutton]

If you go to Atlanticbritish.com they sell the transmission pan conversion kit and have a video to do it. I did it on my back in the garage , suspension in off road height and on 4 ramps, not lucky enough to have a hoist. Did not remove cross member or exhaust. I raised the back of the transmission a little with a bottle Jack and used 1/4 inch drive sockets as there is very little room to work but it is doable. The reason it works is because you are replacing the zf one piece plastic pan with integrated filter - which you cut off so you don’t need the clearance to remove it and replace it with a separate filter and metal pan. It’s a zf pan designed for that transmission so capacity is the same. I believe about 6 million of those trannies were built and they were put in a variety of vehicles which is why other pans are available.
A good Indy shop should be aware of this but I’m afraid I can’t help you there. There is a lot of info on the lr4 forum to re transmission and common engine/suspension problems that are largely transferable to the RR. Also maybe of interest to you is the ongoing keep or sell discussions . They are unique vehicles that do most things very well. I love mine and the supercharger adds another dimension.

Wow, so disappointed with the shop "Exclusive British European" in Campbell. They do a tone of Land Rovers everyday but maybe they are worried about liability as it is not factory; they only use factory parts for replacement. This is good to know. I might just buy another car but not sure what I can get for a 2013 Range Rover with 136,000 miles and needs a timing chain in the future?