NW Challenge Trip Report!!!

[ryan-in-oregon]

No. I would recommend a plated bolt though, for corrosion reasons.

 

[Houm_WA]

so you're saying that a partially-threaded bolt would work just as well, in that joint?

 

[jesus_man]

Based on his first pictures, it seems that the control arm has a 1" wide bushing, so that part of it would not need threaded. My wife has our car with her or I could run out and measure.

J.D.

 

[Houm_WA]

Well the main problem I've run into isn't just the partial threading but also that the only cap screws that are uprated are also socket-type. I can imagine stripping that guy out! I'd prefer a normal hex head.

I've found one in the 10.9 grade easily enough: http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0128808&ucst=t

 

[jesus_man]

I had a machinist friend of mine say that the socket-heat type also come lose easier too. Not something you want here.

10.9 class is readily available and I am looking into other sources for 12.9. Will post if I find anything.

J.D.

 

[jesus_man]

I had a machinist friend of mine say that the socket-heat type also come lose easier too. Not something you want here.

However, I just spoke with a fastener supplier and they have never heard of such a thing. So maybe that's not true.

Ryan - is there room in the threads to run a flat washer and a lock washer or better to put a light duty thread locker on it? Or maybe just follow the torque specs and be done?

Also can you get away with having only 40MM threaded?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-cap-screws/=8zn794

J.D.

 

[Houm_WA]

Good luck! I have been digging around all morning for a 12.9, full-thread and NOT a socket-head type. Sincerely, I hope you find it and post it. I will do the same if I'm successful.

 

[ryan-in-oregon]

However, I just spoke with a fastener supplier and they have never heard of such a thing. So maybe that's not true.

Ryan - is there room in the threads to run a flat washer and a lock washer or better to put a light duty thread locker on it? Or maybe just follow the torque specs and be done?

Also can you get away with having only 40MM threaded?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-cap-screws/=8zn794

J.D.

There is room for a lock washer. You only need about 20-30mm of thread. Infact my temp replacement bolt is only threaded that much and it is working just fine...

 

[Houm_WA]

Partial thread or not, I think the only 12.9 Grade we're going to find is going to be a socket-type screw cap. I actually got a "sample" sent to me...will probably arrive next week. Also verified that my dealer parts department has the factory bolt. I may pick one up as a spare.

 

[blackforestham]

I started part 1 of the bolt replacement and hopeful uprating. I found it hard to believe that mine was torqued down to 129 lb/ft. I can see that mine were tightened or loosened a couple of times. I assume that was the result of an alignment. The bolt faces were slightly rounded due to a loose fitting socket. I also assume that impact tools were used to T/L the bolt. This may or may not be bad for the bolt?? Anyways, the bolt looked fine upon inspection. Loctite Blue was used so I will use the same upon re-installation of new hardware. My local specialty bolt shop produces jigs for decking, honing and building Nascar heads and engines. They have every type of known fastener in the biz. If they don't have an uprated bolt, it may not exist. I'll post up tomorrow after work and let you guys know.
Removal was nothing. It took longer to take off my tire than remove the actual bolt. I'm sure you can do this with the tire on but I like to lay there and inspect as many things as I can with the wheel removed. I did find a small tear in the lower rubber boot of the shock assembly. I don't think this an issue as it's purpose is to keep debris out - not provide an air tight seal to the system. I'll keep an eye on it though. 18mm 12pt socket is the ticket. The bolt only seems to actually thread into the assembly 20-25mm's. The rest of the bolt clearly does not need to be threaded. It's my opinion that a typical fender washer is probably too thin to handle the required ft/lb torque. At 4mm's thick, this feels more like a bearing plate than a washer.