2013 LR4 Rear Axle Fault, Stability control not available, Emergency brake assist not available, HDC not available system fault

[Aderry]

Hey Everyone, looking for some insight. After replacing injectors on my 2013 LR4 in hopes to fix a P0172 & P0175 with fuel dilution in the oil. It started up fine and was running well(drove 50km). I was listening to it ideal while putting the plastic covers on and when I snapped the fuse cover in place with a tap the car instantly shut off and tripped the codes below. I noticed I forgot to tighten the power cable from the battery to the fuse panel and assumed when it clipped into place it did something and killed the car. I tightened it up disconnected the battery to reset the system. After starting it up the codes are all still there. I have checked fuses F21 & F27 (F20 the alternator is missing?) under the engine compartment and F5, F19, F21, F22 in the passenger compartment and they all check out as normal. I had the battery checked by the part store and it is in good working order(2 years old) and the system is charging and 14.5-14.6v. Is there any thing obvious I'm missing? Suggestions?

Thanks,
Alex

• Rear Axle Fault
• Stability control not available
• Emergency brake assist not available
• HDC not available system fault

 

[f1racer328]

Do you think you shorted something out? I’d keep checking fuses.

Are you able to read codes with a GAP tool or similar? Should be able to get a ton of codes off of that and probably get a better idea of what module is not working properly.

 

[ktm525]

Disconnecting your battery won't clear codes. After a few restarts the codes should go away if they are no longer being triggered. How does the vehicle run?

 

[Aderry]

Disconnecting your battery won't clear codes. After a few restarts the codes should go away if they are no longer being triggered. How does the vehicle run

It seems to run normally it's just the drivability/functionality of the components mentioned in the faults above. Maybe I shorted the tccm somehow?

What part of Alberta are you in? I'm in Calgary.

 

[Aderry]

Do you think you shorted something out? I’d keep checking fuses.

Are you able to read codes with a GAP tool or similar? Should be able to get a ton of codes off of that and probably get a better idea of what module is not working properly.

I have the ICARSOFT. It had a couple that didn't seem overly relevant. Ill go for a drive and see what comes back.

 

[Aderry]

I checked the codes and this is what comes up.

ATCM
U0421 Invalid Data Received from ride level control module
U0403 Invalid Data Received from transfer case control module
U0415 Invalid Data Received from ABS control module
U0416 Invalid Data Received from vehicle dynamics control module
U0437 Invalid Data Received from rear differential control module
RDCM
P186D Clutch Actuator Stuck

 

[ryanjl]

If it didn't happen when you had the fuse cable issue I would take a wild guess and say it was a wheel speed sensor, but it almost has to have something to do with what happened with the fuse cable.

To be clear, did you clear the codes with the icarsoft and the last post is what came back after they were cleared?

 

[Aderry]

If it didn't happen when you had the fuse cable issue I would take a wild guess and say it was a wheel speed sensor, but it almost has to have something to do with what happened with the fuse cable.

To be clear, did you clear the codes with the icarsoft and the last post is what came back after they were cleared?

Your post had me second guessing myself so I cleared and checked again. After a little drive the only fault was the the P186D which I don’t have the power to clear with my programmer. Plan is to take it to a shop Monday to see what they think.

 

[steevo]

Start by troubleshooting hard codes like powertrain codes (P-codes). "U" codes are communication codes, usually caused by the underlying fault. P186D is a fault in the rear diff motor, actuator, or solenoid.

 

[Aderry]

Thanks for all the help everyone. I did end up taking it to a shop and they said more or less what has been discussed here. Deal with P186d and go from there. So does anyone have any experience with the different options for the rear diff motor? The spectrum from $150 eBay special to $1800 at the dealer seems extreme.