Daniel Hull
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- Joined
- Apr 9, 2011
- Posts
- 54
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- 5
Changed the front pads this morning. This is I believe the 3rd set up front and I don't think I've ever done the rears. 75K miles and the rears still look at least 50% to me.
I had planned to change the rotors, but stupid me I thought the rotors were sold in pairs like the pads and wound up with only 1 (purchasing from Rock Auto). I measured the rotors and they were still easily within spec. But I had 1 pad, the inside passenger side, that was wore all the way to the metal, so it probably messed up the rotor and I'll need to replace them. The piston and caliper all seemed to move fine so I'm not sure why the inside pad wore so much more. It was the sensor on the other wheel that actually indicated the brake pad wear, so all the pads were low, but none as bad as that one. It may be the rotor was bad before.
Couple of things I noted:
1. DIY guides I had seen indicated needing a manual impact driver with posidriv bit for the rotor screw. Mine have a Torx head and I was able to easily loosen it with a socket wrench and Torx socket. I will need to get a 12 point metric socket for the carrier though.
2. This seems obvious in hindsight, but the bolts holding the caliper piston on do not go into the carrier themselves, you have to hold the nut on the inside (I think it was 16mm) as you remove the bolt or it will turn forever with no relief. The sliding pins with the rubber jacket stay with the carrier. My pads came with replacement jackets so I replaced them. The best process is to loosen the top bolt and remove the bottom bolt to swing up the caliper piston...better than removing both bolts and trying to find something to hold it while you put the new pads in.
I'm sure this is at least the 2nd time I've done this Land Rover and I've done many other cars, but each one is a bit different and there are always a few minor details to figure out.
I had planned to change the rotors, but stupid me I thought the rotors were sold in pairs like the pads and wound up with only 1 (purchasing from Rock Auto). I measured the rotors and they were still easily within spec. But I had 1 pad, the inside passenger side, that was wore all the way to the metal, so it probably messed up the rotor and I'll need to replace them. The piston and caliper all seemed to move fine so I'm not sure why the inside pad wore so much more. It was the sensor on the other wheel that actually indicated the brake pad wear, so all the pads were low, but none as bad as that one. It may be the rotor was bad before.
Couple of things I noted:
1. DIY guides I had seen indicated needing a manual impact driver with posidriv bit for the rotor screw. Mine have a Torx head and I was able to easily loosen it with a socket wrench and Torx socket. I will need to get a 12 point metric socket for the carrier though.
2. This seems obvious in hindsight, but the bolts holding the caliper piston on do not go into the carrier themselves, you have to hold the nut on the inside (I think it was 16mm) as you remove the bolt or it will turn forever with no relief. The sliding pins with the rubber jacket stay with the carrier. My pads came with replacement jackets so I replaced them. The best process is to loosen the top bolt and remove the bottom bolt to swing up the caliper piston...better than removing both bolts and trying to find something to hold it while you put the new pads in.
I'm sure this is at least the 2nd time I've done this Land Rover and I've done many other cars, but each one is a bit different and there are always a few minor details to figure out.