Fuel injector cleaner won’t clean the valves, and neither will anything else you dump in the fuel tank… the 5.0 is direct injected. You need to run something through the intake and down the valves.
Did you get the new version that retains the factory Nav? That one is tempting, but its a lot of $$ to upgrade from what I have which works 90% as well as that one.
it totally depends on what you want to do. what's best for me, may not be for someone else.
the short OEM rails will allow you to use most/all of the aftermarket platform systems.
These motors aren’t new tech anymore. Use a quality 5w20 and change it every 7500 miles or less.
Mixing oils isn’t something you should do all the time, buts it’s totally fine.
Yea, I think I’m chasing that “kitchen table” seating position from the D1, but the 4 is more ergonomic and I’m all in the wrong place. I always felt like I was sitting in a boat driving the Silverado so I’m sure I had that seat up “too high” to compensate.
I’ll drop the seat way down for my...
I'm not sure what happened, but lately I just can't get comfortable in the driver's seat. When I first bought the truck a year ago, it took me a while but I never got it "perfect." Now, 10 minutes in and I have lower back pain. I loved the seats and positioning of my D1, which was a reason I was...
VT is Land Rover land, right up there with the Cape as far as the Northeast goes.
There's most definitely plenty of shops that would work on it. Try Congleton Service, they specialize in RRC restoration but they work on every Rover. They're in Colchester. (802) 879-0200.
you sure its engine related? I'd check out the wheel bearings first.
I plan on going 200k+ plus with mine, though I have a while to go before I get there.
Yea, as long as it's not flaking off or badly corroded you can go right over it. If you want to do it "right" I'd pick up the Eastwood branded product of your choice (some are for painting right over some rust, or heavy rust, or for a frame after you "clean" the rust off) first, then use the...
I planned on doing just a drain and refill, then I couldn't get the dumb plastic drain out of the plastic pan. It was frozen in there.
Ended up doing to pan swap anyway. But otherwise everything you said sounds good. my filter was totally clear with 57k miles on it.
These engines sounds like complete garbage. Smooth as glass though, so you shouldn't be able to tell it's idling besides the awful noise. If it sounds like an old London cab, it's correct.
The same upgrades for the 13 are available for the 10-12s. You can spend your money on navtool or naviplus (800-1200 bucks or so) or grab one from china through aliexpress. Those will run you 3-500. Just make sure you find the right one for the older system, the sellers on aliexpress are pretty...
Its a pain, but not difficult. Jack the suspension up to off-road height, lower and remove the spare. There are three (I think) bolts to remove the evap canister, remove those. You won't be able to take the canister out but it will be loose in place. There are two hoses for the pump, one big one...
I’m pretty inclined to listen to this guy. I’m almost ready to do an oil change again and will be sending back this sample to compare it to the JLR Castrol.
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