You inspired me to go and take a look…. the locking in place is done at the frame… and not even a “bounce” absorbed by the cushions.
I hope I haven’t contributed to some kind of illicit transport business;)
@MRLR4,
I’m afraid to expose the obvious…. I’m not sure you have a well “maintained“ vehicle. And the $6500 price tag should have been a warning bell.
I think its more along the lines that scheduled maintenance was ignored and it only went into the shop when there was a failure. That’s not...
Yes…. but the size does make good sense. If there is an air suspension failure and the vehicle is on the stops… you can still drive it. If you oversize too far, you’ll be stuck. And that would really suck if you were in the deep back 40.
:). yes, the xkr, xjr and s-type R can burn the rubber right off the tires (love those Eaton superchargers). All it costs is more gas. Lots of it.
I have a very healthy resume of off road driving, all over the world. The LR4 is too heavy as a rally vehicle… so I won’t be needing that extra hp...
And I change the supercharger fluid at 50k km intervals.
I can’t see the value of slotted and drilled rotors, off road in these vehicles. Though I use low gears in low on the transfer box as opposed to the brakes.
I haven’t had a need for more hp. And I have pressed in incline level limits.
Are...
:). back to “what are you using your LR4 for”
I have pulleys, tunes, cats on the xjr and xkr. But they are road cars and this adds a layer of “delicacy” and therefore “maintenance” to the car.
Is that what you want for an LR4? to drag between stop lights?? I use mine off road. and I want...
LR used premium components when building this vehicle. Even todays engines are significantly better (efficient lighter, more HP /displacement, torque…) than engines of just 20 years ago. The air suspension is quite robust. Consider how old most these vehicles are, the environment in which...
Why change the heater lines? They look fine.
I did use nylon zip ties with a loop on the end that I used for a stainless screw. I tapped holes for the screw.
Imho, it should have done like this in the first place.
we use blizzaks, x-ice, conti wintercontacts.
funny how we all rate these tires differently.
I have driven with studs and chains/straps, and I’ll take the straps over the studs in snow any day. On ice, the studs.
Not there to listen to the different components… so, ‘yes’ to any of the mentioned, and more.
Nonetheless, I’d get it fixed as opposed to wait for the fail.
I am certain that the ecu is not fired up until the start button is pressed as stated in the owners manual. Now I need to double check that.
I do like the idea of segregating via a switched fuse…. so many fuses in so many locations… it might turn into one of those lifetime projects, lol.
Just venting…. Who was the engineer that scoped thin gauge metal to affix the heater lines along the body to the rear heater…. news flash, they are all rusted out.
I’m thinking of using nylon zip ties screwed to the body. Anyone have a better idea?
Cheers.
Perhaps… In a previous life, I would frequently drive all kinds of military vehicles. I appreciated the many gears.
As all of us know, despite the current theme and trend, regular maintenance is paramount. Not servicing any transmission or cooling system is death. Avoiding overheating is not...
Press and hold the center button on the overhead console until the interior lights flash. You have now just disabled the interior lights coming on with the opening of a door.
Press and hold again to enable.
Some old habits die hard…. I always shut off all accessories prior to shutting down the...
Where I live, you won’t get away with All Seasons unless you are only fair weather, paved road driving in a maintained area.
So, its x-ice for the winter and pirelli scorpion all terrains for the summer, for now.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.