It seems to be erratic. Mine conked out completely yesterday then later in day got slightly warm but very slowly.
It sometimes used to get uncomfortably warm but not recently.
My 2016 steering wheel is acting funny. Sometimes it gets very warm, sometimes just barely, today it quit entirely.
After I shut down and restarted again the heat was working but it still is variable.
2016 LR4, 29,000 mi
I was just driving through a few inches of snow and raised the height to “off-road” The rear lurched at the end of travel. I then lowered it to normal and it lurched again. I got to my driveway and cycled height a few times and each time there was a lurch.
I again tried to...
There’s a product called Pliobond that is very good for this kind of thing. You can get a small tube or a big tub.
I use it to glue leather, anything flexible such as shoes.
Good to know about.
Gorillas glue is amazing but not that flexible.
Pliobond is excellent for dissimilar materials.
Well, yes. The weakest spot will fail first. In the absence of some sort of expansion joint, like a short selsyn bellows, the strain is gonna bust something.
Often wondered how much of the failure rate of this part is due to stress ao thermal expansion/contraction. The coefficient of thermal expansion of aluminum is high and would a solid aluminum pipe fixed at both ends not be stressed to the poin where it might also fail?
Sounds as tho BeemerNut’s...
New England Motorsport in Wilder Vt (exit 12 or 13 from I91) is maybe a tad closer timewise.
They work on my LR.
They also do Jag, BMW, M-Bs, Audis.
Good people.
They are also Tirerack affiliates.
Yes. 2016 with about 15k on it as I recall. Front calipers were seizing intermittently and I could smell them. Nearest dealer is one hr+ and they’re anuses. It was easier for my indie to free up the pins which he did three times. I’d go a few hundred or thousand miles and they’d freeze again...
I think this has just started on mine at 25k miles.
Backed out of the garage on Monday and noticed it at about 1300-1400 rpm.
I could reproduce it by revving up from idle.
Car is in a lot in NYC for the week so I don’t know if it still does it but will check when I drive home.
This is looking better than I thought it would and I appreciate reading all of you guys’ comments and interprétation.
It still looks a tad like that retro Chrysler of some years ago-the one that looked a little like an old-timey potato chip van.
I’ve gotten real spoiled with the command view...
There are gremlins. I had about 15k miles on my 2016 when the panel lit up like a Christmas tree. I called the dealer who suggested just shutting dow, waiting 15 minutes. I did that and everything was normal.
Just a few days ago the voltmeter in my cigarette lighter started jumping around from...
Just today I replaced battery in my 2016 LR4.
I put in an Interstate MTX/94 R7: 850 CCA.
My original was getting dicey and I simply didn’t want to work with closest dealer (would’ve killed at least a day) so i had my local indie do it.
Thanks guys. I carry a Micro-start and was concerned because of what the manual says My battery is getting tired. Got a replacement scheduled in a week.
Appreciate the help!
When jump-starting, according to manual one shouldn’t but the negative clamp from the donor directly on the negative battery terminal but use the vehicle grounding post.
Is there a real reason for this? Why would it make electrical difference?
My manual shows battery on driver’s side and...
No, regular braking is fine at all speeds.
HDC becomes inoperative at 31 mph according to manual. If I have it on at 35 and slow to 30 I can feel it start. No growling. Down at 10 or 15 or so, if I slow even more then it growls. Not as bad as before.
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