Sorry to dig up an old thread I'm likewise getting B1163-15 (drivers door - US) and B1164-15 (passengers door - US). I'd like to take a look at the mirror and check the connection etc. as listed above. How do you remove the mirror, is it just a case of pulling on it? I'd prefer not to break...
Here's the exhaust valve opening just after ignition on:
The resulting gallery pressure (time axis is different because of the software being used)
Driving down the road this then happened to the gallery pressure at the same time that the C1A13-64 triggered:
I'm losing my mind on this one!
Just another piece of information... I notice that the fault often occurs first thing in the morning which has me thinking about cold weather (it's 28F/-2C right now). I read somewhere that just before the compressor is about to run the RLM ECU will vent the gallery pressure to reduce the...
Thanks for responding and yes I did just change to an OEM AMK compressor, I was really careful with all connections, treating them all to a clean, some wd40 and a blast with an air compressor! The key thing in my case is the randomness of this issue; it typically happens the most when starting...
A quick update on this; for those unlucky enough to have the C1A13-64 fault (Pressure does not decrease when venting the gallery") I still haven't found the solution but wanted to document what I've tried/learned so far to get rid of this problem... Certainly adding new O-rings to the three...
How can you tell it's stuck? I realize it's a weird question but isn't it the smaller part inside the valve that actually get's actuated by the solenoid, so the cylinder that has the spring on it, this part:
I think this gets pulled back when the solenoid is actuated and air passes through...
It's going to visit the ($)/dealership on Friday, is this something I could ask them to figure out? Thanks Folks.
I though I'd share the review of the Unit I think I have (I also don't have an old solenoid...):
Thanks - in which case I have no idea... In the VIN, the C in your case stands for model year, so
2001 - would be 1
2005 - would be 5
2009 - would be 9
and so on up to 2010 where it switches to letters:
2010 - A
2011 - B
2012 - C
It will go up to Z in 2036. So you have a 2012!
The second...
It's a 2012 and looking on the Advanced Factors site they state this:
"Discovery AMK Suspension Compressor. Use LR078650 if you already have converted to AMK (or Standard from VIN BA589828) Otherwise you will need the full kit LR072537. You can also fit the Arnott P-2645 AMK Compressor if you...
Thanks - I can do that. How do I know which one to buy, is it AMK originally in the vehicle or Hitachi? Once again coming from a place of learning! Do I have to re-program anything?
To answer my own question... I think this might be the unit (and not very good rankings) and others that mention the C1A13 error!
https://www.amazon.com/Suspension-Compressor-Relay-2010-2014-LR061663/dp/B07N43V4F6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1
Grrr :-(
I'm not sure there are any leaks, it's definitely better on the front; the rear never appeared to have an issue and having serviced the 'o' rings it's effectively status quo.
I did get the suspension fault again over the weekend so the next part to service is the middle compressor valve. I...
Back to the rear valve... WOW, what a pain in the a&* to remove... Per a YouTube video I lifted the back of the LR4 and removed the spare wheel, this was supposed to give me access to the two pipes (left and right suspension) and allow there removal... Not so fast however on a LR4; there's a...
Thank you for the tips, I'll start investigating the project, I tend to watch lots of YouTube videos and then go from there!
I did change the front 'o rings and last night I did the rear ones, there's a great video on YouTube (starting with this one for general info - but on a RR Sport ) and...
Thanks for chiming in, I went ahead and bought the Autel AC200; for $54 I'm super impressed but more about that in a separate thread once I get some time!
I cleared codes last night (with the AC200) and then managed to get a new suspension fault which gave me code C1A13-64 which states...
Dang that sucks... There's always next year!...
The Autel AP200 looks like a good option for my basic initial needs, it seems to range from about $54 to $70 in the US. Hopefully it can pull suspension codes also (I've had a few suspension warnings appear)?
How do I recalibrate without the IID tool and is there a cheaper alternative that can be used for calibration? As mentioned, there are no modifications to the suspension. Thanks.
Thank you, you got my brain thinking... You're right that it needs to vent pressure, it has to vent to somewhere that is lower pressure but I have no idea where this might be or how the system works? Perhaps it's venting but not fast enough? When the vehicle drops to access mode I do hear it...
Thank you - I did see the valve block when replacing the ABS sensor! It's getting colder here in MI so doing a service of this valve may take me a while but based on my experience of the front valve block it may be a good thing to do anyway! More thoughts to follow when I respond to the other...
Hi Folks,
I just rebuilt the front suspension valve block (new o-rings) and now the LR4 seems to stay up over night (good news), the problem I have existed before doing this work and appears to be in the rear. Here's a summary of the issue.
1) I select off-road as the suspension mode and the...
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