Sounds like an air pocket in the cooling system.
With the engine running and operating temperature.
Check the coolant hoses going into the heater core. Should be almost the same temperature. If one side is cooler, would indicate a restriction in the heater core.
I'm not familiar with the GAP tool.
You can't connect to the rail, that's 25K plus psi.
You would have to tap into the fuel line coming off the fuel tank. There's a connection right at the front of the tank.
You can have your local repair facility perform the recall.
Land Rover will reimburse you for the repair costs.
This way you don't have to mess with it.
That sensor may not set a DTC.
You can monitor the low fuel pressure and see if it has any drastic variations.
Have you had the fuel tank flange recall done?
Those are the correct part #s for the recall.
There is a low fuel pressure sensor , on the right side of the transmission-follow fuel lines- that can cause all sort of fuel pressure issues. Maybe try that next.
More than likely. The engine breather box diaphragm is leaking.
On the round cover, there's a port on the bottom. With the engine running, put your finger over the port and feel for a vacuum. If there's vacuum, the diaphragm is leaking.
To be honest. I (along with everyone else that I know) only use the flywheel timing tool to lock the crank.
You just can't be all aggressive when breaking the crank bolt loose.
In reality. once the crank and cams are in time. The position of the chain timing marks are irrelevant. The gold...
Sweet.
Couple weeks ago. I participated in the Defender Trek competition in Monterey CA .
The things that the Defender did is very impressive.
If you ever get a chance, visit the Land Rover off road park. 140 acres of wicked good trails...
The crank bolt is tightened to 148 ft lbs, then rotated an additional 270 degrees.
The crank is locked so when you're removing the crank bolt ,you don't transfer this force to the cam drivetrain. The timing chain will probably snap.
If you are replacing the chains. When disassembling, there's...
Crank needs to be locked to allow removal of the crank bolt. This method doesn't put stress on the camshaft drive train. The crank bolt is ti
Also used to determine whether left hand or right hand threads. 10.9 would be right hand threads.
You may have pushed the camera into the housing.
The horizontal strip that the camera sits in has several nuts that have to be removed.
Remove the rear hatch inner panel to access these nuts. Then the camera panel pops off. See if the camera is adrift.
The timing chain has an odd number of links. Hence the 30 revolutions.
The flywheel needs to be locked to remove the crank bolt. The bolt is left hand thread. Clockwise to remove.
I use a long 3/4" breaker bar from Northern Tools to remove the bolt.
It's always a good idea to blow out the spark plug and injector cavities with compressed air.
Take a woodeN dowel that fits tight into the injector port and blow out with compressed air.
You would also need this tool to install and resize the injector teflon seals.
Use this on the fuel rail. No penetrant required.
After removing the fuel rail, be sure to blow out the spark plug cavities. Don't want all that trash in the engine.
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