95 D1 5 speed, ***** cylinder bore diameter?

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beemer

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Mondays my last day due fore a smog check and yesterday the ***** cylinder took a leak.
I have a replacement on order but will not arrive until thursday, too late.
I'll remove the old ***** and check the bore, if need be i'll machine a 1/8" thick aluminum spacer to get the rubber cup back into a pit free bore area just to pass smog monday.
This will only need to last for a 6 mile trip until the replacement arrives. A shame since I flushed the brakes and clutch every 18 months and still a failure. I may go with silicone fluid.
Anyone know the ***** bore diameter so I can replace the rubber cup on this quick patch job?
Thanks in advance. I'm also fighting solid rain in the S.F. bay area for a month now between downpours.
 
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Disco Mike

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When you get around to rebuilding, consider doing both the ***** and the master cylinder. As old as your truck is, if you firm up one unit, you need to do the other or you stand lowing the other end.
Might also want to consider using a synthetic DOT 4 fluid for less acid build up and longer life.
 

beemer

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Hey Mike, any problem using silicone brake fluid in the clutch master as well the brakes on Rovers after I rebuild the brakes and flush the system first? We used silicone on the 56 300c Mercedes and everything rubber swelled up dragging the brakes, a total rubber system replacement. I run it in my 68 Ford PU for years without any problems with rubber swelling or rust. This ****** was finding the half sheared off and torn boot hence rusting from the outside in, the bore behind the cup inside is like new. I bet the master is ok too so no worries about replacing it with the *****, later should it fail. At 18 month flushings i'll gamble on the master why throw more money at this thing when it hasn't failed as of YET? The ***** design wasn't what I was thinking like a wheel cylinder as I was going to polish the bore then add a cup but the cup is special on the steel piston. I have a new ***** on order friday from Autohausaz just the time factors screwing with them as Az to Calif can be 2 days to 9 days. I have a rush delivery $40 extra yeah and wed the date of delivery. I bet by 6 PM after the smog test station has closed. Maybe another file the Rover for Non Op again vs the DMV late fees Not the first time with this Rover plus the cops made me remove it from my driveway in the past when it was parked and covered for almost 3 months. That was when the SRS went off the wife will never sit in it if it moves at all, a unsafe vehicle unless crushed is her opinion. Well I get it back finally.

Mike, I could not imagine owning a OB2 Disco with more electrical, more O2 sensors plus coil packs that have failed a neighbor more than once as well his automatic vs my OB1 95 D1 5 speed. This was why my neighbor age 66 dumped his 97 D1 and he was a good wrench for many years as a Chrysler mechanic keeping on top of his street driven 72K mile only Rover like my D1 is used street only. He was not a hard beating driver either his wife. Go figure as I tug slinged his butt home 3 times in 6 years. Good thing we both live and drive on a 1 1/2 x 4 1/2 mile island only to tow each other home. My wife counted 11 times she had to call for a ride (she has replacement knees that hurt walking) home the past 15 years in town and one time I had to pay for property damage out of pocket, bushes and lawns destroyed because the ABS went off she couldn't stop vs running over grammer school kids at a school crosswalk. She took the curb and lawns exit route instead. This was the reason it was parked and the cops on my butt. She bought here own new car. I hardly call the Rover a truck, my 68 F250 that's a truck of real iron without Rovers problems. The good thing many times with starter failures I could bump start and get it home vs a slush box. Sitcking exhaust valve then burnt is a total another novel not alone the rear main seal dealer monkey with football *** thing leading to an attorney and motor replacement. Sorry done ranting on the Queens favorite ride, don't get me started. A love / hate relationship and i'm no dummy as a licensed A&P.
You'll like my intake modifications I finished up on the Bridgeport mill last month. A thread of hope still holds me to this thing, to see what fails next? **** if not i'll cry. Carl.
 
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beemer

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3/4" I believe.

Nope! It's a Lockheed England in the side cast lettering with a 7/8" bore.
Cylinder bore is like new until you reach the end where the half sheared off and
cocked rubber seal to the clutch rod due to some idiot installer be it factory or
stealers.

They left off the exhaust manifold locking clips, bolts back out monthly after a engine replacement, the left motor mount heat shield missing hence cooking the rubber mount until I ripped the mount apart. Then add to this the thick fender washers under the motor mount studs to cover the frame mount alignment slots were missing, I pulled the nut half way thru the left slot. Then add a tranny jack against the body quarter panel scratching the paint plus 3 big boxes weighing over 40 pound of Rover parts while parked in the shop I complained and saw them drag the boxes across my black hood causing paint scratches then deny it in front of me that the scratches were there from before they did it. If I had a gun then I would be up for ******. I wanted my Rover towed out of this Stealership. They parked it outside in the rain with the sunroof open hence the interior pouring water in the wifes lap and liner sagging. Black grease in the liner on a sunroof repair, same time double sticky backed scotch taped the rearview mirror back onto the windshield but it fell off 6 blocks away plus they wanted me to pay for the glue kit. "Just a freak in timing it fell off at the dealer" I was told. Removed my spare tire brand new under my Rover cover, found 3/4 worn down and darker gray colored rim only because the tire cover I noticed was crushed in and damaged because of them pushing the Rover outside daily with the electric pusher cart for 3 weeks. Finally when my attorney got them to replace the motor under the 7/100k warranty after pulling the tranny 3 times due to rear main leaking plus the seal spring pounded hard enough to pop out of its groove leaking on a road test big time then the crank shaft removed while motor was still in the vehicle (***? model "T" repair?). I finally get the factory new 4.6 shortblock. Come to pick up the Rover and find no old 3.9 shortblock. It's completly apart pistons crank and rod caps and bearing dumped in a pile on top of the block on a pallet outside. "We'll dispose of it for you". NO FN way, see that Pickup load all my used parts or i'm calling my attorney NOW!. They removed the old motor and installed the new without removing the hood, just over extend it open spring the hinges now the hood sticks up 3/8" higher than the fenders at the windshield, to correct they wanted to bend the tapered ends of the hood downwards to match the fenders. Mind you this is all under the 7/100K warranty my hands are tied plus this by Trained Rover Mechanics. Oh on the factory new motor and within 3 days of my breaking in the motor and my breakin oil change plus adding drain plug magnet at 50 miles I went for a local ride and ruptured one of the old original factory heater hoses that was 7 years old. Stealers installed all the original coolant hoses again. The water pump was 3 days old or less than 100 miles but they installed a new one with the new 4.6 motor when I made them note this was just replaced keep and use it again. Replaced and billed to me with the old one already picked up by the scrap man. Yeah ask me about Rover Stealers. Of 3 1/2 weeks in the shop I had a loaner for 3 days only then told keep it longer but pay them $85 a day to kept longer. They fixed the transfer case
thru shaft "O" ring leak, clunking noise because the transfer to tranny bolts were finger tight. They lifted the hoist while all this waiting for the shortblock, lifted my rover with one lift leg bending the rear radius arm by a 2 " bow, gets better, they also snagged the rear driveshaft with a 1/2" bow, instant vibration at 22 mph driveshaft vibration big time with fresh steel showing in the scars no road dirt or rust. Told "it came in that way we can fix it for a price".
Do I need to go on? The PO a surgeon had this 95 D1 and paid for this 7/100K extended warranty by WESTERN GENERAL in Southern California, what a POS operation getting any approvals from them hence my attorney involved. He planned on the 60K end of lease keeping the vehicle after the major checkup with all work by the San Francisco stealer, new Michelins included plus all fluids changed. Well the brake bleeders still had factory underseal and road dirt on them and I purchased this vehicle 3 days after this full service. He had to sell instead of keeping it as his wife a high tech purchased a car so extra 3rd vehicle Valet Parking at his highrise home.
The diffs drain plugs filled flush with road dirt not changed, tranny, transfer case all dirty with factory black paint and red dry mud not from this area. Swivel drains and fill plugs factory installed only. Mind you all these fluids changed, checked off and billed to the owner. I even called them on this with pictures, I was almost lifted off the ground and removed from this San Francisco Stealership. All the above forwarded to Rover North America Warranty back east. Third Stealer was in Redwood City doing the burnt valve only one cylinder valve replacement and seat dressing, I took the heads away from them to my T/F machine shop and had all 16 seats dressed and all new valves installed after I first polished the backsides and heads to like chrome plus the sticking valve problem was fixed properly not a Rover patch job. Oh this Stealership dropped the "Y" with cats on the cement bending the cat flanges, one cat rattled at startup, oh you need parts department.BS you did the damage. Better yet I installed high flow aftermarket both cats it woke up the motor big time as OEM cats are crap and restrictive. My cost was $63 each and my Tig welding time. Another bad Stealer that lies.
Yup I belive in Sealers like the tooth fairy. Done venting as there is more that make me proud of dealing with Rover Stealers. Sorry i'm venting big time but again on my own thread, not to insult other Rover owners just what BS i've gone thru.
 
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antichrist

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Nope! It's a Lockheed England in the side cast lettering with a 7/8" bore.
Ah, ok. Guess I should have gone to the garage and looked at one instead of relying on my memory. :biggrin:

One thing to be aware of with silicon fluid is that it's not hygroscopic and so instead of having a bit of moisture throughout the system, it tends to pool in in spots and cause worse problems.
I have heard good things about ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid.
http://www.ate-na.com/generator/www...brake_products/50_brake_fluid/bf_info_us.html
 

beemer

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Ah, ok. Guess I should have gone to the garage and looked at one instead of relying on my memory. :biggrin:

One thing to be aware of with silicon fluid is that it's not hygroscopic and so instead of having a bit of moisture throughout the system, it tends to pool in in spots and cause worse problems.
I have heard good things about ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid.
http://www.ate-na.com/generator/www...brake_products/50_brake_fluid/bf_info_us.html

Thanks Tom; that's some good reading plus I like that SL-6 fluid. I find contacts are all back east nobody on the west coast. On their litre volumes available I also see by the case or pallet full, i'm niy needing 600 containers a gallon yes.

I found inside the ***** a fins mesh nylon screen that's so fine waster surface tension will hold water but alcohol or gasoline will go on thru. Up stream of this screen to the master all spotless without any crap at all against the screen, downstream a inside the ***** a lot of rubber grit slight amount of rust off the finger in the bore. Seems all the damage was from water because the end plunger rod robber was butchered up smashed and cocked allowing moisture to enter. The Lockheed ***** bore is all good no pitting and now a mirror after polishing inside with 1,000, 1,500 and 2,000 grit paper. I did this rather than scratch up the bore with a wheel cylinder hone spinning a arbor on the lathe holding the *****. I'll try to order some SL-6 fluid. On my 68 Ford F250 i'm at 400K miles and 15 years with silicone fluid only replacing the cups in the wheel cylinders and master 3 times with zero pitting in the bores. I'm street only with using solvent spray washing the motors only after the brake and clutch masters, dizzy, and alternator sealed and wrapped up no water blasting. Damn it's 9:40 AM the Brown Box Truck arrived with my new ***** cylinder from the late order of 11:40 AM Pacific Time, should of been a monday processing. Have to go and locate some SL-6 fluid in my area and flush the master before installing the *****. Great as we've been hammered with rain for 6 weeks solid in the S.F. bay area.
I just need an hour of no rain the Rover is tilted up on stands. Thanks bro i'm off on the phone for local area fluid. You would like the 1 1/2" thick aluminum spacer I milled out lowering the max TQ down by 285 rpm's vs the stock 3,100 rpm's plus the 1/4" plenium extension lift for better straight airflow to the end trumpets. The electronic injector pulser timer and Hz controller cleaner I built made it easy to back and forward flush injectors plus balance check with my Burette tube. Ultrasonic cleaner also helped on these Ford disc 4 hole injectors vs them Lucas units. A big wow in starting, running and throttle response. Well some with opening up the vacuum signal port in the plenium by 2.5 times and resetting the butterfly instead of over center before opening. It ran great last friday before a smog on saturday morning when the ***** failed
just before a highway run for burning the cats clean. I used to hammer on Joey all the time as the ABS came up with a code not in the books. I have a complete spare ABS system, sensors on back to a spare computer as well now the SRS started to blink and is now on but the S on the right side shows a sign of blinking all the time. A spare computer for SRS from a 97 plus the fender impact sensors and 3 Rovers full of relays. Another day with that crap to worry about. I'm off. Carl.
 
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antichrist

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If you didn't order one, I'd get a new flex line too. That can always be replaced later, but would do it soon. Yours, if original, is past it "use by" date and is probably ballooning inside when you use the clutch and reducing the clutch action.
 

beemer

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Ah, ok. Guess I should have gone to the garage and looked at one instead of relying on my memory. :biggrin:

One thing to be aware of with silicon fluid is that it's not hygroscopic and so instead of having a bit of moisture throughout the system, it tends to pool in in spots and cause worse problems.
I have heard good things about ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid.
http://www.ate-na.com/generator/www...brake_products/50_brake_fluid/bf_info_us.html

Hey Tom; the clutch ***** from wwwAutohausaz.com is made by PBR a company down under in Oz., told it's of high quality so it's going in soon as the rains stop. On the ATE brake fluid I located a supply in San Francisco, quarts at $7.65 each, gallon $56.41 so cool beans just a 16 mile trip in bad weather. ATE told me to not worry about my clutch master being I flush all the time just to flush with new ATE fluid then all's good like I was thinking. Wrenching time again.

I'll get my other wild machined items posted or better yet emailed to you and Joey if intrested in the future as I took pictures of the whole process including the injector cleaning build plus the intake extensions I machined out. I'm within 1/2" of the hoods insulation allowing for engine torque. I had to make spacers to tilt the rear of the airbox to allow the MAS and ducting to align with the taller plenium inlet. later Tom the rain has stopped. Carl.
 

beemer

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Just after installing and bleeding the new clutch *****, removing the jack stands and tools the sky broke into a heavy downpour again, all in the timing plus all's well with the road test. Now set up for the smog test the exhaust smells like a hair dryer that clean. can't wait until the smog test is over so I can readjust back to the power settings again plus add the other MAS flow meter set to the RPI Tornado chip to get the power back again. I can idle down to 325 rpm's in this tune, no worries passing the smog test. SRS, ABS dash lights to trouble shoot plus replace 3 door lock springs then back to a 100% funtional D1 again.
 

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