Spray Painting Wheels

Yeah it's because those are routed right where some rubbing can occur in the rear wheel well.

AxelR said:

I haven't found a shop that would allow to test this... They appear to all be oh so busy.
However, it's only a half inch (0.6") difference with the 265 so it should be fine.
The one thing though, is that it seems a bunch of people are relocating their rear HVAC lines... Not looking to have to do this.

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Dealing with those lines is not as difficult as it may seem at first glance. In fact, it is not so much the lines that pose the work but rather the body metal flange which stands out about 1". The lines tuck against this flange almost as if the flange is there to protect them but I doubt it.

I had this "bulge" flattened on both sides because it is a very tight fit when even the 265/65x18 is fully compressed into the fender liner. With the modification there is much more clearance gained.

I also had more clearance created at the front wheel area where the steel bulged out at the lower sill near rear of tire. This spot is tight when on full lock turns and rubbed when using the Goodyear Duratrac in 275/65x18. Now there would be almost an extra 2cm clearance.

My biggest annoyance now is with the new air suspension compressor depth resulting in my Rover Specialties sliders not fitting on the side with the compressor. I have not test/attempt fitting them but it is obvious the newest compressor physical size and/or bracket structure hangs lower than the factory 2007 unit (replaced last summer under extended warranty).

This issue with the sliders is particularly annoying in terms of timing on my end with compressor replacement and recent slider refurbishing. While it would be a simple enough modification to make the slider have an extended section where they already had a little drop plate, by cutting out some of the steel, adding more depth, welding, etc.

Mine were rusting so 2 years ago I had them fully blasted clean down to raw steel, then galvanized, cured for 9 months, then got around to powder coating. This was completed just before the compressor gave out. I do not want to alter the integrity of the galvanization but I would like to re-fit the sliders!

Hey jwest,

I had my compressor replaced for the newer one about 2 months ago.

Even though, rock sliders are still a few months away for me, I know that Tactical 4x4 offers a relocation bracket for the compressor (so it doesn't hang so low).

When looking at their website, it's offered with the rock sliders however I'm pretty sure they could sell it on its own.
You should get in touch with them.

Axel

Sweet. Thx!

I installed the Tactical 4x4 compressor plate. It's ok, could use some additional fine tuning in shape and mounting cut outs. To integrate nicely with the Rover Specialties Sliders that I have, the plate will require being cut some in shape of a notch on rear edge where a vertical plate of the slider intersects.

I was in a similar predicament with my Rover Specialties Sliders and needing a new compressor. I provided tactical some update suggestions and they said they would consider incorporating them into the next production run. I ended up going with a rebuilt hitatchi compressor from here: http://www.buyautoparts.com/autoparts/Land_Rover/Suspension_Compressor.html
Really happy with it, but seems they are currently out of stock. I better get my core back to them ;-)

Curious to know how this works out for you guys. I have RS Sliders and an old compressor....when it goes out, I have the TR relocation bracket at the ready. I'm hoping not to have to cut my sliders (much) and I don't really want to extend that drop-out because it's already something that cause a hang up on that side.

Houm_WA said:

Curious to know how this works out for you guys. I have RS Sliders and an old compressor....when it goes out, I have the TR relocation bracket at the ready. I'm hoping not to have to cut my sliders (much) and I don't really want to extend that drop-out because it's already something that cause a hang up on that side.

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If your sliders are like mine, and they should be identical, you WILL have to cut something, but it should be the bracket, not the sliders.

The darn bracket is just going to rust being only painted mild steel so I think I'm going to pull several items off and have them all galvanized.

I'll be happy to cut the bracket instead of the sliders. Say....I often sand off surface rust and re-spray the sliders. Is that approach not sufficient or are you just looking for a more permanent solution to the rust?

That's fine but unless you remove them from the vehicle to do that, you won't be getting to all the areas on top of them.