08 RR HSE Opinion

Sorry I know it is a breach of forum protocol to come in asking questions about reliability, but I am at work and dont have the luxury of engaging a proper forum search so here goes. Check my intro thread elsewhere for general details.
I am looking at buying an '08 HSE with just over 100k miles, CPO certified. I have never owned a Rover so I am curious what I am getting myself into. Any thoughts on common things to look out for on a unit with this kind of mileage? There is also an '07 SC available with 110k but what little reading I've done has kind of scared me off of the supercharged engine. I heard anecdotally from a coworker whose wife had a RR (not certain if Sport, SC or HSE) that the brakes require frequent maintenance. Any truth to that? Anything else? I dont want to get killed on maintenance, though I realize I am looking at a luxury SUV so I may have to seallow my medicine. Any hope of DIY maintenance on these? For reference, both are priced well below $20k USD.
Thanks for the feedback.
Tyler.

I just bought a 08 HSE with the supercharger. We did a road trip from Phoenix to the Grand Canyon last weekend and it was a blast flying up the mountain with that engine. Gas milage wasn't too bad, either, about 15.5 mpg.

I was fortunate to find this one with only 36,000 miles. I just got the check engine light tonight so I will be interested to see what the diagnosis will be. I have a feeling I will be sorting this one out for a bit but I feel it's worth it for such a low milage truck.

How is a car with 100k miles certified?

bonz said:

How is a car with 100k miles certified?

Click to expand...

You are correct. It is no longer under "CPO" warranty coverage after 100k.

Best case for an owner who had it for a while first is if they had a dealer relationship and the dealer was nice enough to cover a few things just after the 100k mark. This idea would however not be a transferable agreement.

Now, some people get "cpo" confused with "extended warranty". They use the terms interchanged but it is not at all the same thing in many ways.

An extended warranty generally starts at the time of purchase and then begins a stated mileage and time period from that moment.

For example, some will say "4 years/up to 100k miles" This is what I had on the LR3. I did not run out of time but I did hit the 100k about 9 months early. So, I was correct to guesstimate the time frame being that 3 years would have been too short - I had a couple large claims in those last months of the 100k.

Now, there are other warranty styles like given on VW called "real driver" something or other. These are years and actual mileage covered from time of purchase. This means they are not odometer based but rather an actual miles number added to the odometer at time of purchase. This is pretty sweet because it can end up providing coverage out to the 125,000 mile range.

All the warranty companies have odometer cut offs for what is still offered to purchase. For example, I bought the extended warranty just before 50k and before the 4 year mark. Buying an extended while still under factory base warranty is the easiest because it is then assumed any major lurking issue has already been covered because it's still been under warranty. If I'd waited until 55k or 4.5 years, I'd have had to get an inspection and possibly not been offered the extened 4yr/up to 100k option.

On Land Rovers, I would NEVER buy a warranty that is NOT $0 deductible per visit or issue. If you think about the odds, going in 10 times over 4 years is not unlikely. By having the common $100 deductible, you're basically planning to spend $1000 more on that warranty. At that point I'd rather just gamble with none at all.

TAKE NOTE: The 3rd party one I had through the dealer here covered every claim. HOWEVER, at one point they pulled a total BS move forcing me to prove what I paid for the vehicle claiming they needed proof the cumulative repairs $12,000 or so by that time, were less than the purchase price of the vehicle.

I can not come up with enough expletives to describe my feelings toward them and their complete lack of logic on this issue. A simple look at KBB would show it being worth more than the figure above at the time they were asking, therefor the vehicle must have been purchased for more than that even if I'd bought it the day the warranty was purchased 3 years earlier at half the mileage. I found it to be extremely shady/****** of them to require proof of purchase price when it is obvious I'd bought the vehicle much higher than the current book value. In fact, at 105k now, it's still worth more than their "concern" it could be no less than total claims made.

READ the FINE PRINT !


That experience made me want to buy a used one with a bunch of stuff ready to fall apart and their warranty just to stick it to them.