Future LR Models in US

AxelR said:

@jwest. Sounds like you built yourself a pretty sweet truck. Glad it meets your needs.
Just watched a short video posted by NASDiesel in which a VW Touareg (used as the base for the Dakar - extremely modified admittedly but so is your truck) is as capable as any other vehicle climbing a pretty wet incline.
Either way to each their own I believe is the expression.
I did consider the LR3 as well when I was looking for a new toy and I just did not like the interior so much.
I can't wait to see pictures of your trips, I have to admit that I don't take so many pictures myself.
Have you considered swapping engine and sticking a big diesel under the hood, you'd have the truck of your dreams.
By the way, I did not mean to upset you. Life is short, live it they say.

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As I said, I had a V10 tdi set up with the same BFG tires and while it was very impressive, in fact incredible for a "car", it was still a car. By no means does similar slippery slope climbing ability equate to overall equality. The simple fact of it's very limited wheel travel is the biggest issue.

At some point when I'm ready to replace my "car", the BMW, it will most likely be with one of these types of "capable" mini-suvs such as the tdi Cayenne.

jwest said:

As I said, I had a V10 tdi set up with the same BFG tires and while it was very impressive, in fact incredible for a "car", it was still a car. By no means does similar slippery slope climbing ability equate to overall equality. The simple fact of it's very limited wheel travel is the biggest issue.

At some point when I'm ready to replace my "car", the BMW, it will most likely be with one of these types of "capable" mini-suvs such as the tdi Cayenne.

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The driver of the Toureg was impressive but it required mucho skinny pedal all day long. Not something you can sustain without axle or eventual drivetrain injury.

NASdiesel said:

The driver of the Toureg was impressive but it required mucho skinny pedal all day long. Not something you can sustain without axle or eventual drivetrain injury.

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Do you recall what tires the VW was using? Lots of throttle imply less traction, which is also what happens to the LR vehicles when out on factory all-season tires as opposed to a BFG AT or Nitto, etc.

I'd expect from a traction stance, the VW with a rear locker and set in low range would not be spinning tires much but it would be lifting a wheel almost all of the time due to lack of travel. - I know, I put mine over a number of such tests and it would crawl slowly as long as the tires could bite.

For example, mine with the same 265/65x18 bfg did incredibly well, however they came stock with 19" 255/55 road tires which were worthless off road not being able to air down mainly.

They were an aggressive AT, don't recall what brand. It did well overall. Locker would have helped.

jwest said:

Regarding the tank: I got mine used but new they are $1600 plus shipping and installation. However, last I heard they are not being shipped in anymore by ARB who brought mine in. The brand is Long Ranger out of Australia so you could try contacting them first.

It would easily be in the $2500 range for paying a shop to do the whole job with a new one.

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You can buy them now from Ben at Outback Proven. I just ordered one. Should be here late this week. Though I don't expect to install it until the winter. Not enough free time.

NASdiesel said:

You can buy them now from Ben at Outback Proven. I just ordered one. Should be here late this week. Though I don't expect to install it until the winter. Not enough free time.

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Good for them. It's really one of the modifications I appreciate the most.

Hi there! I've been pretty busy and away, but I just saw you and jwest talking about the long-range fuel tank from Outback Proven. Perfect timing, because I am likely going to be ordering one soon, as well as a Kaymar rear bumper (though I am still up in the air a little). I know Tactical 4x4 has a rear steel bumper for the LR3 and Eric just e-mailed me that he will actually be fitting one to an LR4 in a couple weeks, so I am very curioust to see how that goes! A guy in my rover club just got the Kaymar and long-range fuel tank, so very curious to see how another rover club buddy (the one that helped me with my ARB front bumper) does and then I will likely follow suit.

Do either of you guys have some insight as to how the long-range fuel tank is installed and works? Any potential issues?

Hey Nasdiesel - the ONE big thing about the Kaymar that I do not like on the RHS is that it blocks the passenger tail light. I know you had folks fabricate something, could you remind me if you have a write up?

Thanks so much! I will likely be pulling the trigger sometime soon.

Regards, David

I read somewhere that it boost the range into the 500+ miles not sure how many gallons since the good old chaps were talking in liters

ivan gonzalez said:

I read somewhere that it boost the range into the 500+ miles not sure how many gallons since the good old chaps were talking in liters

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I think it's 28 gallons. I would rather do this instead of the Jerry can swing away. If needed, I can stick Jerry cans on my roof, so the long-range fuel tank is a lot more practical; however, adds even more weight to my already VERY heavy LR4. Still, right now I can only go about 240-250 miles on a fill up, would love to expand that range!!!

Finlayforprez said:

Do either of you guys have some insight as to how the long-range fuel tank is installed and works? Any potential issues?

Hey Nasdiesel - the ONE big thing about the Kaymar that I do not like on the RHS is that it blocks the passenger tail light. I know you had folks fabricate something, could you remind me if you have a write up?

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Tank installation:
I had a shop do mine that already had experience doing it one time and it still took a whole day without permanently mounting the gauge/switch postponed until later after I had time to consider where I wanted it.

As for mounting the tank physically, I think that's the easy part as it just bolts into factory holes but routing and combining the fuel filler is tricky and then you have to take care how you run the wiring for the pump.

You will need a fuel pump which is only about $40 so I'd say get two and leave one in the vehicle. It is VERY easy to access/replace and they do eventually fail like mine did which limped along a little while with some light tapping against the housing.

Tank "works" this way:
Small pump brings fuel up and slowly drips into the main filler shaft near the exterior filler cap/opening. It's slower than about the rate of a professional espresso machine If you run the front tank dry, which should be avoided for a number of reasons, you will have to either coast for 5+ minutes on a decline or park while enough fuel is brought into the main tank to start up from.

Tank issues:
1-engine code regarding evaporative system (less pressure due to extra piping or volume)
2-I notice difficult start up sometimes, seemingly when low on fuel, possibly related to above. I am trying to remind myself to always let the system get "ready" longer before fully turning the key to start position. This has seemed to help before and may be as simple as a little more time for fuel to prime or whatever it does in the instance before starting.
3-I would say it is essential to include the IIDTool as a requirement for adding the tank due to the above. It's no big deal if the CEL is on simply due to less pressure in the tank system but you wouldn't know if it's that or something serious without a way to check the code, and then clear it so any other code will show if needed.